Best Epoxy Resins for Wood 2020 – Reviews and Buyer’s Guide

Best Epoxy Resins for Wood 2020 – Reviews and Buyer’s Guide

Top pick


Pro Marine Supplies


The Best Epoxy Resin For Wood


Pro Marine Supplies is the best epoxy resin that I used. This epoxy contains no VOCs and provides great coverage. Also, Pro Marine cures harder and more quickly than most epoxy resins.

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best epoxy resin for woodWhen it comes to creating a beautiful wooden table top, the epoxy resin is off the charts, period. While there are stains and the like are fairly popular solutions, they are not the most long-term options available, often requiring regular touch-ups.

I personally think that Pro Marine Supplies Epoxy is the top option, but a DIYer might want to keep reading for a more convenient option.

Furthermore, could you create something gorgeous like river table using only wood finishes? I think not. This is where having some good epoxy resin would really come in handy. That is why I have taken the time to thoroughly list 13 best epoxy resins for wood that I have used, highlighting what each one does the best. I also provide a quick comparison table as well as a more thorough buyer’s guide to help you decide.

Best Epoxy Resins for Wood in August, 2020

#Epoxy resinCure time (hours)Covers at 1/8Volume 
1Pro Marine Supplies
Editor's Choice
12-1412.5 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
2RTG Bar & Table16-2012 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
3SRC Crystal Clear 16-2012 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
4East Coast 16-2012 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
5TotalBoat Table Top 16-20 12.8 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
6MAS Clear Table Top >2412 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
7ArtResin2416 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
8Countertop Epoxy16-2012 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
9 Dr. Crafty16-2012 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
10 Premium Epoxy2412 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
11Superclear Epoxy Resin16-2012 sq ft2 gallon kit Check Price
12Primaloc Premium12-1416 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price
13Countertop Epoxy2412 sq ft1 gallon kit Check Price

Here is the list of the best wood bar top epoxies you can get.

1. Pro Marine Supplies Epoxy Resin  – Top Epoxy for Wood

Pro Marine Supplies was a company that started out as Pro Marine Repair a little over a decade ago. During that time, the small business owners realized that too many epoxy resins on the market were not up to snuff.

Like many companies, this led the owners to expand their market, and now the sister company specializes not only in epoxy resins for wood but this particular product exclusively. That said, it does seem a bit odd that a company focused on boat repair would move to the tabletop market, but this is still a solid option.

On top of that, due to being founded in California where environmental protections are more strict, this is also an epoxy resin for wood which does not contain any VOCs.

Surprising Performance

While the surprise might be a bit oversold, without much experience or a larger parent company to guide them, Pro Marine Supplies has put out one of the best product that I saw.

Aside from the fact that this formula contains no VOCs, which will decrease respiratory issues as well lower your risk of cancer, this is also one of the more durable epoxy resins.

That said, this product also offers one of the greatest coverage areas I saw at 48 sq ft and is naturally blush resistant as well.

Temperature and mixing

The most important part of this product is a temperature inside the room and mixing. Those are two substantial moments. You need to keep your room at eighty degrees which is where manufacturer say to keep it for the Pro Marine. Be careful while mixing it, make sure to pour it into different containers when you’re measuring it out.

I mixed it for about 10 minutes and monitored the temperature of the epoxy the whole time until it reached 92-93 degrees which is one of Pro Marine tips they say on their website. Let that epoxy heat up a little bit so that it cures a little harder if you want a scratch resistant and harder surface.

  • Cures harder than most
  • Has UV protection
  • No VOCs
  • Covers 48 sq ft
  • Is blush resistant
  • It is water resistant
  • FDA food safe
  • Requires a quicker application

2. RTG Bar & Table Top Epoxy – Great For Anything Indoors

This is an excellent tabletop epoxy for all-around use. It is marketed as a good epoxy for those who have never used this kind of product before, and the marketing seems to be accurate. This stuff is really easy to mix, as it uses a simple one-to-one ratio (by volume, not by weight) for an easy and simple mix. It bonds to just about anything, including wood, stone, concrete, metal, and ceramic.

Stops further rotting

RTG epoxy is fully waterproof, making it a good choice for projects that involve driftwood or other partially rotted wood. With a piece like that, you do not want the wood to rot any further. As such, you can use an epoxy like this to preserve it for much longer than you normally could.

RTG has a “self-leveling formula,” which is a fancy way of saying that it is formulated to spread itself evenly in all directions. Of course, you should still make sure to level your working surface before applying this product all the same.

RTG has a very tough exterior when cured. Not only does it do an excellent job of resisting scratches, but it can also resist heat up to 125 degrees. This might be very important if you are refinishing a kitchen counter.

Extremely glossy

Now let’s discuss the downsides of this product. Overall, this is a very good product. However, it is not intended for outdoor use. Over time, direct exposure to the sun’s rays will break down this epoxy and cause it to eventually wear away. Thankfully, RTG epoxy is formulated to resist UV decay, so it’s still safe to put the table next to a window.

Another small downside (although it will not be a problem for everyone) is the fact that this is an extremely high-gloss epoxy. While this is very good for most jobs, some people prefer a slightly flatter finish to a high shine. For instance, someone who is going for a primitive and rustic look would probably opt for a low-gloss epoxy.

  • Easy to mix
  • Bonds with nearly anything
  • Waterproof
  • Self-leveling
  • Tough surface
  • No good for outdoor projects
  • Extremely glossy

3. SRC Epoxy Resin – Top Budget Option

It might seem a bit surprising, but SRC is actually one of the more well-known manufacturers of epoxy resins, though they do not specialize exclusively in this product category like some of the other manufacturers on our list.

That said, this company did still get its start manufacturing epoxy resins and does still focus primarily on this type of product. What is even more impressive is that SRC, due to its popularity and size, has been able to undercut most of the competition in terms of price, easily making this the top budget epoxy resin for wood.

In fact, when you compare this product to the general experience of using an epoxy resin, it may, in fact, be a bit more convenient than some of the others.

Easy Peasy

To be clear, this is not actually the easiest product to use, but it does come with a number of qualities that make it convenient.

For instance, while not the quickest in every category, the SRC Crystal Clear epoxy does at least provide a comparable final curing time as our quickest at 16 to 20 hours in total. Even better, the SRC Crystal Clear also has a solid early curing time of 40 minutes which provides an additional 10 minutes of work time.

While experienced professionals may get frustrated having to wait that extra 10 minutes, new users and DIYers are liable to appreciate the extra time.

When you also consider that the SRC Crystal Clear resin is self-leveling and has a lower odor than most, this might also be the best DIYer epoxy resin for wood too.

  • Got a high gloss
  • Has a low odor
  • Got UV protection
  • Is self-leveling
  • The least expensive epoxy reviewed
  • Cures quicker than most
  • FDA food safe
  • Requires a quicker application
  • Not the hardest finish

4. East Coast Epoxy Resin – Fastest Curing Option

East Coast Resin may not be a company you have heard of, but that only makes sense since they have only recently started having an online presence. Before that, you had to find out about the company with more than 20 years of experience through a specialized distributor.

That said, it seems as if East Coast Resins understands what most of their customers actually want out of an epoxy resin for wood: immediacy. That is why East Coast Resins made sure that their product provides the fastest curing time that I saw, though the race was a close call in the end.

That said, this particular model still provides plenty of other benefits as well, though it is likely not the best option for inexperienced users.

No Time Flat

By far the top quality of the East Coast Resin epoxy is how quickly it cures at every stage of the process.

First, when it comes to the work time, few epoxies on our list can compete with East Coast Resin’s 30-minute window. On top of that, the total cure time of this epoxy sits at under a full day between 16 to 20 hours, depending on how many layers you applied.

That said, the application itself can be a bit of cause for concern for new users as it requires more consistency in its preparation than many of the other options that I saw.

If you do not prepare the East Coast Resin properly, you are liable to suffer from bubbles coming through the finish as well as other potential curing issues.

On the other hand, the East Coast Resin offers solid options across the board in other regards. For instance, this resin does offer UV protection, and though they are not absolute, they are actually better than some of the other resins I reviewed. Also, this epoxy resin does offer solid water resistance, though yet again, this is not a 100-percent waterproof epoxy resin.

  • Has a high gloss
  • UV protection
  • Odorless epoxy
  • Is self-leveling
  • It’s water resistant
  • Has the quickest curing time
  • Complicated application
  • More likely to bubble

5. TotalBoat Epoxy – Great Indoor Epoxy

TotalBoat Table Top Epoxy may seem like an epoxy resin with an identity crisis, based on its name, but the brand is arguably the best option for most people by far. This is because TotalBoat, which is owned by Jamestown Distributors, has a particular focus on pretty much all finishing products related to mariner crafts.

Basically, if it goes on something that goes in the water, there is a good chance that TotalBoat manufactures a top-tier product for it. While this may seem a bit out of place for our list, it actually ensures that the TotalBoat Table Top Epoxy provides some protections others do not.

Because of this, as well as a number of other great features provided without any real difference in the price, I included the TotalBoat Table Top Epoxy in our list as a good indoor epoxy resin for wood.

Everything Inside

The TotalBoat epoxy is noted for being one of the worst performers on an outdoor workpiece.

This may seem odd considering the brand specializes in working with workpieces that are almost exclusively outdoor products. That said, if you plan to keep the finished product indoors, like with most workpieces that would be described as “table tops,” you will get one of the best results that I have seen.

First, this is the only product that I reviewed which can boast a 100-percent waterproofing protection, though since it might otherwise be applied to a boat, I would hope this to be the case.

That said, the TotalBoat is also one of the best formulas I saw for inherently preventing both blushes and bubbles. On top of that, this is also one of the few epoxy resins that I saw which can handle temperatures well above boiling without leaving a mark on the epoxy’s finish.

  • Has a clear coat
  • Is self-leveling
  • Is 100-percent waterproof
  • Has great heat resistance
  • Got a fast curing time
  • Is blush and bubble resistant
  • More complicated application
  • Poor outdoor performance

6. MAS Epoxy Resin – Great All-Around Product

MAS Epoxies might not be the most well-known manufacturer of epoxies, but they may very well be the best. While they did not get our Editor’s Choice award, that was mostly due to the fact that it is a bit less convenient for most people’s purposes.

However, this is one of the premier epoxy resins if you are looking for a product that can do pretty much everything well so long as you do not need it to be done quickly. That said, they say good things come to those who wait, and the MAS Epoxies resin provides a multitude of good things to those who are willing to wait on it a bit.

That is why I rated this our top all-around epoxy resin for wood. Just make sure that you do not need the finished product any time soon unless you have a curing cabinet.

Like a Pro

One of the top qualities of the MAS Epoxies resin is that it was made by professionals for professionals, but it also understands that DIYers are liable to look their way as well.

To this end, the MAS Epoxies resin has taken a lot of the guesswork out of applying an epoxy resin by providing not only an entire kit but a step by step walkthrough as well.

This makes the MAS Epoxies significantly easier to apply than some of the other products we reviewed, though that might also be because you have significantly more time to apply the epoxy in the first place.

This actually brings us to the worst quality of the MAS Epoxies resin which is that it takes much longer to cure than most of the other products I reviewed.

In fact, this is the only option on our list that suggests you allow for longer than 24 hours for the epoxy resin to cure at room temperature.

  • Provides the largest coverage reviewed
  • Has a clear coat
  • Is self-leveling
  • It’s more durable than most
  • Has UV protection
  • Easy to apply
  • Slow to cure
  • More likely to bubble

7. ArtResin – The Artists’ Choice

Art Resin is an epoxy that is designed with the artist in mind. As you may already know, epoxy resin has many different uses. Because it can be cast like metal (but is much easier to melt than metal) it is a natural choice for sculpture and other forms of 3-dimensional art. This product is focused on the needs of the artist, but can also make a fine tool for more practical purposes.

Great For Casting

Epoxy casting isn’t quite as easy as you might think. You don’t simply mix the product and pour it into a mold. If you do that, you are likely to get some terrible results. For one thing, you have to take great care to make sure that everything is properly mixed. Any unmixed material will create weak spots where no chemical bond is present. A pressure cooker is required to avoid bubbling, warping, and other problems encountered while drying.

Because this product is designed for artists from the ground up, you can be assured of an easier casting process. Not all epoxy resin products take these needs into account, so this is a great choice for the amateur caster.

Safe, But Not 100% Safe

This product is advertised as being very safe and non-toxic. Indeed, the product does get high marks in the safety category, but the advertising might be a little misleading. With no volatile organic compounds (often called VOCs for short), this one doesn’t present any danger to human life. It is also free of BPA (bisphenol), a plastic additive that has come under fire in recent years for its effects on human health.

However, we can see a different story when we look at the MSDS for this product. It says that the fumes can cause some pretty serious issues. There is even a warning on the bottle, right next to the label that tells you the product is free of VOCs and BPA. Still, I can also see that this product is completely safe once it has cured. It’s even safe for use on food prep surfaces, but make sure you wait until it is completely cured.

  • Formulated for easy casting
  • Food-safe once dried and cured
  • Very good product/company reputation
  • Self-leveling formula
  • Resists yellowing quite well
  • Very expensive
  • Not as harmless as advertised

8. Countertop UV-Resistant Resin – The Eco-Friendly Option

This epoxy has a few interesting qualities that make it worthy of a spot on our list. The main selling point of this item is the fact that it resists UV rays better than most products on the market. This makes it a decent choice for outdoor use.

This product is meant to provide a very clear finish and is advertised as being crystal clear. When it dries, it looks a lot like glass. Within 36 hours, it cures completely and is even more clear. The product is formulated to resist staining and yellowing so that it will provide a durable and long-lasting coating.

This product also offers a high safety factor. It contains no volatile organic compounds whatsoever. This means that Countertop resin does not pose any significant risk of toxicity to you, your children, or your pets. In fact, it has been rated by the FDA as being 100% safe for food use.

However, bear in mind that this label only applies when the resin is fully cured. Applying this resin is more pleasant because it has almost no smell at all. There is no need to fool with a facemask or a respirator.

Bonds to any surface

Countertop epoxy bonds well to wood, concrete, MDF board, Formica. ceramic, tile, and most types of stone. Another good thing about this product is that it gets pretty good coverage in terms of square feet per can. It’s not a huge difference when compared to other brands, but it’s a big enough difference to save a little money when buying multiple cans for large projects.

This product does have a few shortcomings, although they are not that bad. First of all, this product does not create as hard a surface as some other products of this type.

If you are filling a large area with epoxy resin, this might not be the best thing to use. You have to be a little more careful about scratches with this finish.

This product also tends to show a lot of bubbles. These can be removed with a heat gun or a hair dryer, but it takes a little longer than you would probably expect. If you opt for this product, be prepared to spend a little more time with the heat gun in your hand.

  • Excellent UV resistance
  • Non-toxic
  • No odor
  • Good coverage
  • FDA food safe
  • Scratches somewhat easily
  • Harder to remove the bubbles

9. Dr. Crafty Super-Gloss Epoxy Resin – The Middle Ground

Dr. Crafty is another well-known name in this market, so let’s see what they have to offer. Some reviewers say that they have sworn by this product for years with no problems.

Less Prone To Bubbling

If you are wondering why a pressure cooker is necessary for proper epoxy casting, the answer is simple: bubbling. When plastic is melted and cast without pressure, it tends to absorb air from its surroundings. This causes a lot of bubbles to form in the resulting item. Even if you aren’t pouring it into a mold, it’s good to have one that isn’t that prone to bubbling. Such a thing can ruin your work very quickly.

Fully protected against UV damage

There are two tiers of protection against UV damage: UV stabilizers and HALS additives. The first of these will delay the yellowing and peeling, which is caused by the sun’s UV rays, while the other one will prevent it more permanently. Obviously, a lot of epoxy products don’t include these ingredients.

Because this product contains both kinds of UV protection, it is suitable for outdoor use. Even long-term outdoor use should not be a problem. When using this product as a coating, it is likely to be the last coating the item will ever need.

Bonuses And Guarantees

There are a few little perks that come with this product, and they are worth discussing. First of all, I’m very reassured by the money-back guarantee. This kind of guarantee is not common for these types of products, so the company went the extra mile here.

I also like the fact that this product is basically an entire kit. It includes the epoxy and its matching hardener, but it also includes two mixing cups, two stir sticks, and two plastic spreaders. In other words, it has everything you need to get started.

Consistency Issues

This epoxy seems very good, but I do see a few consistent complaints. Most of these complaints come down to the consistency of the product. A lot of people say that it’s too hard to mix, with some claiming that it took them twice as long to mix this epoxy. This might explain why good mixing tools are included with the product.

Some others have complained that the product is too thin when mixed. For instance, one user who was coating tumbler glasses with colored epoxy had some frustrating results. He found that the only way to make the epoxy stick was to place the glasses on a rotary lathe-type device. Still, that isn’t a huge inconvenience. The thin consistency does make it easier to make a mess, but that can be remedied with a little caution and care.

  • Good value
  • Doesn’t take bubbles easily
  • Non-toxic once cured
  • Fully protected against UV damage
  • Refund guarantee
  • Comes with two cups, two sticks, and two spreaders
  • Doesn’t mix properly when it’s cold
  • Thin consistency

10. Premium Quality Clear Epoxy Resin – The Budget Epoxy

This is a cheap epoxy resin, and it still seems to offer a reasonable level of quality. Like my other choices, it is a two-part mixture made up of two half-gallon jugs. The hardener and epoxy are mixed at a 1:1 ratio, which does make the measurement aspect of the process a little easier.

Takes A Little Longer To Dry

A lot of reviews have said that this product takes a while to dry. In fact, some people even reported that the mixture never hardened at all! This was somewhat confusing to me because most reviews for this product have been positive. However, I think I have an answer to this question.

This product comes with no instructions for mixing it properly. Instead, it just says to mix at a 1:1 ratio. While most people understand that this means mixing equal amounts, the manufacturer forgot to tell people one very important thing: Do you measure by weight or by volume? This confusion has obviously led to some problems. However, on the upside, this product does give you a little more working time.

Non-Toxic And Foodsafe

Like the rest of the products on the list, this one is made to be safe for human health and the environment. It is rated safe for food surfaces and contains no volatile organic compounds.

  • Cheapest product on our list
  • Non-toxic once cured
  • Not prone to yellowing
  • More working time
  • Can take more than 24 hours to dry
  • No instructions

11. Superclear Epoxy Resin – Best Deal For The Money

This is a product that comes in two-gallon kits instead of two-quart kits. That makes it a little bit better of a deal. After all, everything is cheaper when you buy in bulk. While this one may be a little cheaper, it seems to get overwhelmingly positive reviews with very few complaints.

First, this product has a very high level of UV resistance. The advertising doesn’t say if this product is suitable for outdoor use, so use caution if you are thinking about using Superclear in this way. The best way to verify that you are doing the right thing is to perform a test. Just coat a small piece of wood and leave it out in the weather for a while. Check it after a week and see how it holds up to the elements.

Scratch-resistance and durability

This product is fully waterproof and forms a hard, scratch-resistant coat. More than one reviewer has remarked upon the hardness of this resin, and upon its ability to maintain good clarity even when creating deeply layered finishes. For the artist who wants to experiment a little bit, this wouldn’t be a bad choice at all.

Superclear epoxy is formulated for use with a large variety of colorants. This gives you a lot of flexibility when you are planning your next DIY furniture build.

I have found that a lightly colored finish over a pale wood such as white oak can have a stunning effect, and can bring out the color of the wood in many subtle and attractive ways.

There are a few problems that we can find with Superclear epoxy, although none of them are particularly serious. First, many have reported that this epoxy will often start to tack up and harden before it can be fully applied. This problem becomes even worse in hot weather, making it necessary to put your epoxy in the freezer to buy more time.

  • Crystal clear
  • Great depth
  • Doesn’t bubble too much
  • Decent price
  • Hardens too quickly in hot weather
  • Not certified as safe for food by the FDA

12. Primaloc Premium Epoxy – Easy To Apply

This epoxy from Primaloc stands out in several ways. First, we should talk about its’ most distinctive quality. This epoxy is not meant to be brushed or stirred, as you would normally do when applying such a substance. Instead, you just pour it on and it self-levels to exactly one-eighth of an inch.

Before you do this, however, you have to apply a thin preliminary layer of epoxy. This “seal coat” is intended to remove any roughness on the object that is to be sealed. This allows the poured coat to level itself more quickly, and to give a more perfectly even surface.

Contains no dangerous compounds

This makes Primaloc a really good choice if you aren’t very good at hiding those brush strokes.

This is also another product that offers a complete lack of volatile organic compounds. To put it more simply, this means that it does not contain dangerous chemical substances that might pose a threat to you or those in your household. There can be no doubt that this is a serious plus.

The makers of this product pride themselves on having created a product that offers maximum clarity. For those who like to get creative with these products, this can be a serious upside. However, it won’t matter a whole lot if you are coloring your epoxy. This product is extremely well-suited to “layering” work. That is to say, the kind of projects that involve layering different object on top of one another.

For instance, you might use some old coins or some printed pictures, or some cool-looking rocks that you found. By applying the epoxy in layers, and adding objects to each layer, a beautiful contrast can be created. Of course, you really do need a crystal-clear epoxy that resists yellowing if you want to get the most out of your work.

Not the best for outdoor

The only problem with this product is that it will not resist outdoor conditions very well. Some users have reported yellowing within a week if the product is left in the hot sun. To be fair, the product is clearly labeled as being “not for outdoor use,” so at least the marketing isn’t dishonest.

Some users also reported that the product dried too quickly for their liking. Thus, you may consider avoiding this one if you are doing something very intricate that requires more drying time.

  • Easy to apply
  • Self-leveling to 1/8 of an inch
  • No toxic chemicals
  • Dries a little too quickly
  • No good for outdoor use

13. Stone Coat Countertops Epoxy – Epoxy for Wood Countertops

When you have a nice, expensive wood or stone countertop, it pays to protect it with some kind of water-resistant coating. You have a lot of options in that department, and this one is a top-coating you may choose.

Tough, Waterproof, And Versatile

Epoxy provides one of the toughest finishes that you could want. It will be resistant to denting and impact (at least, much more so than a standard polyurethane coating). Also, the epoxy resists heat with great effectiveness. This is very handy in the kitchen, where you will often find hot objects.

Epoxy also provides an opportunity to be creative. It is relatively easy to add a dye to your epoxy if you so desire. This can be used to give your stone a tint of any color you want, or even make it look like an entirely different color. You could actually make an entire countertop from this epoxy, although that would require a large mold.

The main purpose of this product is to protect your wood or stone countertop from water damage. This one also provides UV resistance, which is good if your counter is located next to a window. The self-leveling feature is also nice, as it makes the application much easier.

The Problems

Some people might also have trouble mixing the epoxy and hardener properly, as they must be measured exactly.

  • Protects countertops from water damage
  • Can be used in creative ways
  • Long working time
  • Gives a crystal clear finish
  • Provides a heat and UV-resistant layer
  • Self-leveling
  • Has to be mixed precisely

Buyer’s Guide


While this may not necessarily be the most important consideration when selecting an epoxy resin, it will definitely impact how much value one product provides over another.

When you account for the fact that the prices within the market are fairly stable and similar, the amount a given product provides in coverage will ultimately determine the overall value of that epoxy resin, all other things being equal.

That said, the coverage area for most epoxy resins follows a similar formula as the price with the majority of the products providing roughly the same coverage area as their competitors. As such, if you find an option provides more coverage than 25 sq ft, you should consider that an excellent deal–so long as there are no other major flaws with the formula.


This is another quality of an epoxy resin that people will place a fair amount of importance in but is not necessarily the most important for the epoxy resin’s ultimate performance. That said, the curing time will impact how quickly you can use the finished product which can be especially important if you are applying the epoxy resin for a commercial surface.

It is also important to remember that there are actually 3 different types of curing times:

  1. The first curing time is how long it takes for the epoxy to harden to the point that it can be touched.
  2. The second curing time is how you need to wait before applying another coat
  3. The final curing time is the amount of time before the surface can be used in any general purpose.


The application is actually one of the most important considerations for an epoxy resin, especially if you are not an experienced user. That said, even for those who regularly use epoxy resins have a tendency to prefer products that are easier to apply.

This is because an epoxy resin that is difficult to apply increases the likelihood that the resin will not cure properly. Most of the time, difficulties with the application process involves how the resin cures while it is being applied. The most common issues with the application are either the development of bubbles or a condition called blushing.


epoxy table topThis can either be one of the most important considerations or simply a nice bonus, depending on the surface and kind of job that you are doing. When it comes to self-leveling the main point is that you no longer have to worry about the streaking or other imperfections that a non-self-leveling epoxy resin may suffer from. Of course, the main benefit of a self-leveling epoxy resin is the ability to fill in cracks, dips, and other planar imperfections.

Remember, if an epoxy manufacturer advertises both a self-leveling formula and a quick curing time, it might not be able to do both well or at the same time. As such, if you need an epoxy resin to help fill in planar imperfections, you need to choose a slower curing formula.


This is likely one of the most frustrating issues that you can deal with primarily because it does not really appear until after the resin is already well into the curing process. Basically, an epoxy resin blushing creates a waxy bi-product that sits on the surface of the finish.

Aside from the fact that blushing mars the finish, it also prevents an issue for any other application thereafter–whether you are applying another layer of epoxy or some other type of finishing product. While some epoxy resins actually provide some protection against this effect, the fact remains that the better way to prevent blushing is to keep the workspace as dry as possible–including with a dehumidifier if needed.


Bubbles love to appear in the cracks. They can come from a number of different places, both inside the formula and out, but the fact remains that it completely ruins the finish of an epoxy resin. That said, the difference between bubbles coming from within and bubbles occurring on the exterior determines how you should tackle this problem.

If the bubbles are seeping into the epoxy from outside, you should make it a point to apply the epoxy in a warmer place with little to no humidity. On the flip side, if the bubbles come from within the surface material, you will need to apply a hot gun to help get them out. Yes, a blowtorch is surely going to be your good friend.

Similar to a blush, this effect will have a bigger impact on those formulas that cure more quickly than others. That said, this is generally considered an easier problem to overcome since, in the end, a hot gun will ultimately solve the problem either way.


While the protections of an epoxy resin get plenty of headlines, the fact remains that few of epoxy resins are out and out weak or fragile. The overwhelming majority of epoxy resins will still provide adequate protection from impacts and other superficial kinds of damage.

Instead, the main protections you look for involve other types of damage that can be either incurable or even lead to ruining the workpiece in the first place. Outside of the general physical protections, the most important ones to look for are protections from the elements. In this instance, the two main potential problems lay with the sun’s UV radiation and water seeping through the resin to the surface material below.


This is actually likely the most important kind of protection for the widest range of people. Keep in mind, while epoxy resins might be used for a wide range of objects, materials, and surface, using an epoxy resin on wood that will be used to hold things is the most common.

As such, tables, bars, and other similar workpieces are some of the most common instances where you will use an epoxy resin. These workpieces also often happen to be tasked with holding food and beverages. Even if you do not spill anything on your epoxy resin, simply setting a glass on it without a coaster can leave a watermark.

That said, there are actually a couple epoxy resins that offer 100-percent waterproofing protections–though that is uncommon, with water resistance being far more likely.


There is no real way of getting around the fact that your standard epoxy resin will always suffer from UV radiation. If the resin has to deal with regular UV radiation unaided, it is only a matter of time before the epoxy finish turns from clear to yellow.

Some epoxy resins contain materials that will help stave off the effects of UV radiation, but none of them completely protect the workpiece. As such, if you are simply using an epoxy resin without some additional finish, make sure that the finished product will remain indoors and away from direct sunlight. That said, most epoxy resins are designed to serve as a sort of primer for other finishes–including a clear coat that provides UV protection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does epoxy resin bond to wood?

Not only does epoxy resin bond to wood, but it bonds very strongly. It creates a near-permanent bond that will be very hard to break. However, I would caution you to make sure that the surface of your wood is fully prepared before adding the epoxy.

A dirty surface is one of the main things that can prevent proper adhesion. You will also have better luck if you avoid mixing different brands of epoxy. While two different kinds of epoxy can bond to one another, you will get better results by keeping it homogenous.

Does epoxy resin make wood waterproof?

Yes, epoxy resin can be used to make wood waterproof. In fact, that’s one of its main purposes. While many people like to use this resin for more artistic purposes, it can be used much like a wood sealer. You just paint it over the surface and allow it to dry.

Does all epoxy resin yellow over time?

When you think about the strength of epoxy, it’s almost hard to believe that the sun can damage an epoxy resin finish. As with many yellowing issues, the culprit is the sun. Specifically, yellowing of epoxy is caused by UV rays which break down the fibers in the epoxy and cause the whole thing to take on a dull yellow hue.

Thankfully, many manufacturers have added UV stabilizers to their epoxy resins. UV stabilizers will prevent yellowing, but not forever. In the end, a UV stabilizer just delays the inevitable. However, there is another additive called HALS (Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer) which is far more effective over the long haul. This stuff prevents yellowing before it starts and has performed very well in tests and experiments.

Is epoxy resin scratch resistant?

For the most part, epoxy resin will resist scratching, scuffing, and other minor damage. Because it is basically just a very strong glue, any kind of epoxy will dry to a hard and durable finish. However, your results will depend partly on the thickness of the epoxy layer. The thicker the layer, the harder it will be to scratch the wood.

For instance, some wooden floors are coated with epoxy for extra longevity. All of these floors have a 2mm layer of epoxy, and anything less is not considered to be a true epoxy floor. Thus, you may need to use more of the stuff in order to get a truly durable result.

Is epoxy resin eco-friendly?

The answer to this question is not a simple one. While the dry epoxy resin is not considered to be an environmental hazard, it would be a little bit of a stretch to call this an eco-friendly product. As we have already seen, many manufacturers will advertise their epoxy resin as being completely harmless. However, you have to read the fine print here. Epoxy resin is safe once it has dried and cured, but presents a few hazards before that.

The problem lies in the fact that epoxy requires the activation of certain chemicals, and these chemicals aren’t always the gentle kind. Thus, there is no way to completely avoid harsh fumes. That being said, some products are far more toxic than others, so I recommend that you check the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for your product just to be on the safe side.

Does epoxy resin last outdoors?

This might surprise you, but epoxy resin is not suitable for outdoor use under normal circumstances. We already talked about how the sun’s UV rays will cause yellowing in most epoxy products. If the epoxy is left in the sun for a long time, even harsher problems can occur. As it yellows, the epoxy will turn brittle and eventually begin to peel away.

That’s why you should always go with a UV-resistant product when using epoxy resin outdoors. This stuff doesn’t tend to be cheap, so it makes no sense to waste your money on something that will not last. Look for products with UV stabilizers and HALS, as these are the best solutions. Some manufacturers will add dyes to their epoxy in an attempt to reduce light penetration and thus reduce light degradation. However, most people prefer to use clear epoxy, so this isn’t a great solution.


In the end, most of these epoxy resins will actually provide a fairly similar finish and will do so at around the same price. With this in mind, I recommend the Pro Marine Supplies as our Editor’s Choice for one primary reason: coverage.

Of course, there are still some solid budget options on the market, and for our money, the SRC Crystal Clear epoxy resin offers nice solution on a budget.

While it will not provide the hardest finish for a heavy-duty workpiece, it does offer one of the quicker total curing times while still giving you an extra bit of time for the early stages. Ultimately, this is a bit easier of a product to use for beginners, though you do still have to work quickly.

76 thoughts on “Best Epoxy Resins for Wood 2020 – Reviews and Buyer’s Guide”

  1. Nice article William. Even though I’m experienced DIYer, I learned some new stuff.

    I’ve done many projects using epoxy resins including dye river tables, top bars and other DIY pieces. There were several brands I’ve tried, all of them gave me pretty nice results but I think Pro Marine required less effort in comparison with other resins: easier application, less bubbles (nevertheless a heat gun is needed). It’s a good choice for those who’s working with epoxy for the first time.

    • Hi, Natalie.

      Glad to hear you found the article useful, appreciate it.

      I totally agree that Pro marine is a good choice for newbies. What’s more, when I was doing my first epoxy resin table top I used that exact brand which as you can guess turned out to be great.

    • Hi, Anton.

      If your project isn’t very big and the surface of your piece has got a few imperfections then >60 grit sandpaper will be a good affordable choice. For large wooden projects with a pretty rough area it’s better to use an electric tool such as orbital sander. It’s much more expensive than sandpapers but it will save you a lot of time and it’s just great for big projects such as river outdoor dining table or something like that. Otherwise, sanding will be taking so much time and eventually you will end up giving up on your DIY idea. Furthermore I think sander make wooden surface much more smooth than sandpaper, so if this isn’t your last project and money isn’t a big deal for you then sander is definitely your choice. You don’t have to be a pro to use this tool. Hope this helps.

  2. Hi there William! Like your article. I’ve wanted to do some DIY for a long time. There was a bunch of articles I read about wood finishes such as stain, polys, lacquer and more other stuff. But river table… As soon as I saw one I knew this is what I’ve been looking for. Endless amount of shapes of the river pattern, I can paint epoxy any color I like. I want to do it! 

    • Nice to see you on my blog, Patricia. Glad to hear that you want to create something beautiful by yourself, really nice. I’ve used a lot of finishes, every one of them creates its own unique look. But yes river tables are magnificent. By the way, there are many other projects made of epoxy resin such as lamps, decorative eggs and other cool things, check it out on youtube 

  3. Gonna do my first project and i want to do it properly. After i pour one coat of resin when can I do the next? And what about bubbles, I suppose they can ruin the whole final effect. Thanks.

    • Hi, Denis.
      You can see the table I composed on top of the article. It clearly shows curing time of each product so you have to wait at least 12 hours for full curing to begin pouring the next level of epoxy. Curing time is very important, do not mess it up.

      Bubbles… Epoxy resins and bubbles go together. Bubbles appear while mixing the epoxy, they appear while pouring and spreading the epoxy across the surface. There is nothing wrong with it but you have to handle it by using heat gun, it’s the best possible solution ever existed. Once you pour the epoxy wait 5 minutes for bubbles to raise up and pop them with heat gun. Do not wait too long otherwise the epoxy will get harder so it’ll be much more difficult to get rid of all the bubbles. It’s very simple: just turn your gun on and hover over the surface, bubbles will start disappearing immediately, not a big deal.

  4. Very useful article, thanks.

    It may sound trite but how can I fix my wooden pieces while pouring so that pieces stand still until epoxy cures completely? Looking forward to your answer.

    • Hi there, Melisa.

      There are times when we need answers to simple questions. If you are doing a river table you can just place some kind of enclosure around your tabletop so that it stays fixed and epoxy doesn’t flow out. You can make it using wooden decks and cardboards, bond enclosure to the surface using glue.
      Have fun doing your project.

  5. Love your amazing review. Is there any conditions wooden piece have to satisfy before applying epoxy? Only certain types of wood acceptable?

    • Hi, Inessa.

      First of all, you can use any type of wood you like, no problems. Unlike wood stains (which can be used only for specific types such as softwood or hardwood) epoxy resins can be applied to any wood since they don’t affect the grain. Choose what you like the most, do not hesitate.
      Before applying epoxy you have to make sure that wood is clean. Remove dirt, flinders, peeling bark and other blemishes. Then sand the wood using sandpaper or orbital sander to make the surface smooth. After you finish sanding it’s very important that you remove all dust, the surface engaging with epoxy has to be totally clear. It would be great if you could use a vacuum for that purpose.

    • Hi David,

      Yes, any epoxy resin can yellow over time, there is no panacea for that. But most epoxy resins have components reducing the impact of UV rays which means the epoxy will stay clear longer but not infinitely. I think it isn’t a big problem since epoxy resins are supposed to be used mostly for interior projects not exterior. Interior projects got no problem with UV rays. But if you really want to get an outdoor project then I suppose you will need some extra top coat finish over epoxy which has strong UV protection. Sorry, I’ve never done anything like that before so I can’t give you comprehensive instructions.

  6. I’ve just finished my river table, it took approximately 20 hours to complete it, very exciting process you know. Now I think I can make the table look even better by applying some finish but actually don’t which to choose. Or maybe it isn’t worth it? What do you think about it? Thanks.

    • Nice to see you, Brina.

      Yep, you can finish the wooden parts of your river table. I think oil is a great choice here; it will seal the wood and give it a polished satin look. Please, check out the article where I listed top oils for different wooden pieces on the market. Hope you will love it.
      If you had wanted to finish your wood before applying epoxy you could have used wood stain. Stains are great since they unfold the natural beauty of the wood. But once you applied epoxy do not use any stain because it may color the epoxy which will ruin the entire project.

  7. Hi there. Finally got Pro Marines and poured my river table. Love it, now I want to protect it from scratches. What can I use for that?

    • Hi Michael,

      You came up with a good decision, it will be disappointing to mess up a beautiful table. Shellac or polyurethane would be a good choice to protect your piece, these are clear top coats which are nicely suited for epoxy resin. It’s worth mentioning that polyurethane is much harder to strip off later, but it gives you the best scratch protection. On the other hand, shellacs is another great option, which can be simply repaired and refinished in time. So for you, I would recommend using shellac since it has a good scratch resistance and you could easily refinish or remove it using a solvent.

      If your table’s got scratches before you finish it you could sand the surface a little bit to get rid of scratches and then finish it.

  8. Τhis site waѕ… how do you say it? Relevant! Finaⅼly I haѵe found something that helped
    me. Finding good epoxy resin was a real headache. Thank yoᥙ!

  9. Great Article! Quick question for you, can coloring pigments be added to all these brands of epoxy? And how about an article showing the worst 10 epoxy’s! I have used Glaze Coat on a few things. My first was a 9ft Farm table I made for my daughter using all hardwoods and most were curly or spalted. Turned out awesome. Going to try doing more live edge tables with color.

    • Hi, Mike.

      Yep, you can add dye to any epoxy from the list.

      Never thought about top worst products, maybe I should try that 🙂

  10. William,
    I am doing a bench and rock combination, I plan on doing a waterfall off of the rock and landing it on my bench and I would like to have a lot of bubbles where the falls land. Just like the real thing, I am the oddity who wants some bubbles.
    Any ideas of how to accomplish this?

    • Hi, Kieran.

      It’s a really interesting project you’re going to create. Sadly, I have never done anything like that before. I think it’s a pretty rare case so you will probably need to spend some time researching the web to find the proper technique. If you don’t find the answer try to create a topic on some woodworking/wood finishing/diy forum.

      By the way, recently on the internet I stumbled upon this epoxy resin sink which has bubbles inside it:

      epoxy sink

      Perhaps you’re trying to accomplish something similar. Actually, I don’t know how to achieve such an effect but the only idea that comes to my mind is using a needle syringe. This is how I imagine it: wait for the epoxy to harden (but not completely), then pierce the surface with needle syringe and blow bubbles one after another. Since the epoxy is hardened a little bit, the bubbles will not pop up. After that, you need to warm up the punctured surface to ‘solder’ the punctures.

      Of course, we don’t want to spoil your project so you may try this method using a little amount of epoxy before starting your project.

    • Hi, Indranath.

      I think a sealer is must have here since you need to prevent the paint from penetrating into the epoxy. Of course the paint may be totally dried but I just want to make sure everything will be okay. After sealer dries apply the epoxy as usual.

  11. Hello William,

    First off, many thanks for doing this type of review – I really appreciate it.

    I’m looking for an epoxy to fill in gaps in insect damage wood that I use to make small, jewelry type boxes. Nothing over 1/2 inch thick. I’m wondering how these resins react to a thickness planer, router. Just how hard to they cure? I damaged a set of knives recently on wood that had be stabilized with Cactus Juice. Are these products product hard enough to damage planer knifes or router bit? Any near out or breakage?
    From your reviews it looks like RTG might be my best option as it sticks to almost anything. Getting the frass – residue from what the termites or worms have damaged – from the holes can be done but getting sandpaper inside the hole to sand may not be doable.
    FWIW, I’m oven drying my wood to 0% moisture before starting work on boxes.
    Any advice is appreciated.


    • Hi, David.

      Unfortunately, I’ve never used neither planer nor router to shape epoxy. I used sanders and chisels to shape pieces of wood filled with epoxy that was placed on a wood lathe, I didn’t notice any serious damage done to chisels afterward. Any epoxy from the list cures pretty hard but I can’t definitely say whether it will harm your tool or not. It’s better you ask that question on some forum. I’m sure there will be a person who’s done something like that before.

  12. Thanks for taking the time to compare. Being a DIY’er and selling some of my pieces I’ve shopped around for the biggest bang at an affordable price so to speak. I completed a large river table for a customer and used SRC. Because it was 2 inches thick I had to make several pours. I have looked at Stone Coat Counter Tops product’s and liked their reviews. Have you looked at their epoxy and casting resins?

    • Hi, David.

      I heard about this brand but haven’t used yet. A friend of mine did a couple of projects using this epoxy, they looked nice, can’t say anything negative. Think I may try this brand out later. I would be glad to get feedback from you if you try this epoxy earlier than me 🙂

  13. Thanks a lot for the reply. Sorry I should have mentioned that i was going to finish the table top with epoxy as well.
    To state it clearly, I want to fill the bigger splits, empty spaces with epoxy, by pouring it up to the level. I want to finish the top with epoxy. I hope that gives more context for my previous question.
    I have been doing a lot more research about this issue and found that I do need to seal the entire surface of wood, for my application. Your article helped a LOT.

    The overwhelming question I have now is what kinds of epoxies should I buy.

    To fill the checking and minor defects, I wanted to use West Systems 105 resin and 206 fast hardener. I bought the combination from amazon.
    For casting, I was going to use Pro Marine Supplies two part epoxy.
    What should i use for sealing the wood?
    What should I use for finishing the table top?
    Should I buy different epoxies for filling, casting, sealing and finishing, or is there a product out there for all applications. (heard something called GlassCast 50, that can be used for filling, casting and sealing. But it looks like it is from UK)

    Though this is not a deal breaker, i also wanted to know if there a product that lets me pour a thicker layer than 1/8th of an inch. I am a little rushing for time. I might not have time for 16 pours needed to come to a height of 2 Inches, 8 hours apart. I would really appreciate any help regarding these ridiculous number of questions.

    Many, many thanks for your time.

    • For sealing, you may use Agra-Life

      For finishing, the best option for you is clear spar varnish (exterior varnish). It’s specially designed to deal with harsh weather conditions, moisture etc. Initially, spar varnishes were used to protect sailing ships but now they’re used to finish all types of exterior wood.

      I’ve never met an epoxy able to do all things: sealing, casting and finishing. For filling and casting you can use the same epoxy.

      All epoxies on the list do its best when poured 1/8 inch thick. I wouldn’t recommend pouring thicker levels.

  14. Thanks for the great article and responses to everyone’s questions! I am working on a live edge slab table that was cut near the outside of the tree and is very irregular on “bark” side. On the serving side of the table, it is completely level except for one area on the “leg” of the tree that has a1/4 inch shallow deficit. If I plane the table down a 1/4 inch, I lose a great deal of the surface area of the table so I am planning on an epoxy pour to level this out. I have used Eco-poxy so far to fill deficits and areas where I removed bark. It has a long set time (3 days) but I can pour a greater depth at once. My question is really with finishing –
    1. Do you think I would need to then epoxy the entire surface for consistency?
    2. Could I finish the wood with poly-urethane or would that give strange results?
    3. Would you recommend a different epoxy for this “leveling lake” that I will need to create?
    Thanks! Laura

    • Nice to see you here, Laura.

      1) It isn’t necessary. You may do so if you think your whole table covered with epoxy will be looking better. It’s just a matter of ‘appearance’.
      2) Yes, you could if you want an additional level of protection but the result will be less glossy compared to the epoxy used solely.
      3) I don’t see any problem with using Ecopoxy for that. If you hesitate use Pro Marine Supplies instead.

      Hope this helps.

  15. wow, have learned a lot. If i understand this correctly, I sanded and restained a wooden table, so now I have to seal it before I cover with epoxy resin? actually the center, which is about 1/8″ thick is covered with pennies and the framing around that is the stained wood.
    hope this makes sense. it originally had white tile squares, i chipped them out and glue pennies in place of the tiles. looks great, so far. thanks for any help. Sandy

    • Glad to see you here, Sandra.

      Yep, better to seal the wood since we don’t want the stain to penetrate into the epoxy. Also, you will avoid appearing of tiny bubbles coming from wood pores by doing so.

  16. William great article. You have given me some things to consider when i do my River Table Bar. I have one question. when using a color mix in the epoxy and doing several lifts, do you use color in every pour or just one? If its just one where should i use it ? first pour, middle or last? Im going to router out the river in a 18′ wide gluelam made out of 2×6 material. It will be 92″ long with a 4′ leg on one end.
    Thank you for your time

  17. If I am applying a sealant to hardwood to avoid bubbles, can I apply that sealant a full day in advance of the Epoxy coat process? While it would help with my project timetable, I am wondering if that sealant layer should be tacky like you described the 1st epoxy seal coat to maintain proper adherence to the project

  18. William,

    As a follow up on my question on allowing a sealer to fully dry or not before the epoxy coats are applied, would Thompson’s Water Seal, Signature Series clear sealer be an appropriate choice if using the pro marine epoxy resin on a walnut slab?

    • Hi, Cory.

      Sorry for the late reply.

      Let the sealer dry completely, it’s okay. What about which sealer to use, I would recommend Agra-Life. You see, Thompson is a great sealer but it’s designed for exterior wood like decks, fences etc. Agra Life is more versatile, can be used both for interior and exterior projects, it’s great for epoxy projects.

  19. Hi..

    Can anyone rate or review the glasscast 50 epoxy resin please !! I thought it’s a real good quality resin but it’s not even listed here of the best 10.

    Thank u

  20. Hello William,
    I’m insetting a few coins into the wood piece that will have a river of epoxy. In your experience is any one product better then that other? And do you foresee more bubbles because of surface, material of heat differences between wood and metals in the same project?

    • Hi, Joan.

      I don’t really get what you mean by ‘better product’, sorry.

      It may be a few bubbles. Just pour as much epoxy as needed to cover the coins. Then you will be able to easily get rid of any appearing bubbles with a heatgun. When all bubbles are gone pour the next level of epoxy.

  21. This site has answered many of my questions. Thank you so much for your insight!

    I’m leaning towards Pro Marine for a river table but I’m concerned about toxic levels and odor. I’ve use East Coast on my larger art mixed media resin projects….I do wear a respirator, and have proper ventilation, but the odor lingers for a very long time. Any recommendations on a product that will give me a good result with less toxicity?

  22. Hello William,
    I’m looking for an epoxy for a walnut slab that can withstand freezing cold. I live in Minnesota and want to fill in all the holes for bench and table. Any ideas of the best product to use? Thanks appreciate any ideas.

    • Hi Darlena.

      Do you want to keep them outside in winter or you just want to do the pouring and keep them indoors? I don’t know a particular epoxy that can withstand cold better than other epoxies.

      Anyway, all epoxies on the list require 75-80 degrees to work properly during pouring, so in your case, there is no outstanding product. You may use space heater if it’s too cold in the room. Furthermore, you may warm up the epoxy placing it in a warm water bath.

  23. Hi William,
    This is a great read for a first timer, and everybody else of course.
    I salvaged a worm riddled half cedar log (one side still rounded from how the tree grows the other side eaten down to the middle of the log by worms) today. Beautiful holes, some quite deep and big and loads of them, that I’m looking to save by pouring clear epoxy over. Is that even possible? Reading all the bubble hunting scenarios, I have come to doubt it. I don’t think there is a way for me to seal all exposed wood, into all those holes. Would you have an idea how to approach this?
    Also, how much moisture is the wood allowed before using epoxy? Or maybe it doesn’t matter when the other half stays unfinished?
    The more reading, the more questions.

    • Hi, Anne.

      Sorry for the late response.

      Interesting case. I think it’s very tricky to seal all of the holes since there maybe be some holes that you can’t see that may contain air which may cause huge bubbles during pouring epoxy. You may try pouring sealer into the holes then drain excess sealer so that sides of the holes are sealed. But as I said above, there may be holes that are hard to seal.

      Part of the wood on which you’re going to pour the epoxy should be dry.

  24. Hi,
    I want to fill some large knot holes and bark inclusions in a live-edge black walnut slab table up to flush with the rest of the top. I don’t want to coat the whole table top with epoxy. The depth of the holes and inclusions varies from shallow to an inch deep. I understand I should seal them first before applying epoxy, but after sealing, how do I apply the epoxy — one coat or a series of layers? Is there a particular brand epoxy that would be best for this?
    After the holes are filled and fully hardened, can I sand the epoxy at the same time as I sand the whole table top? I want to maintain the transparency so the holes will be visible. I plan to finish the entire table with satin polyurethane varnish; will the epoxy take the varnish the same way the wood does?
    Thanks very much.

    • Hi, Fred.

      Sorry for the late reply.

      The max level per pouring is 1/8 inch, this is optimal for leveling. So if for example, you need to pour 1/4 inch, then you need to do 2 pourings, pour next level only after previous is hardened. All epoxy brands do its best when poured 1/8 inch per level.

      Yes, you may sand the epoxy as you sand the whole table. Poly varnish should work, make sure that you sand the epoxy before applying.

  25. Hello William,
    I made a round table with 3 pieces sliced ​​from olive trees. I did sand 80 sand-2000 sand. I made cake and polish.
    I didn’t get the transparency and brightness I wanted.
    After applying teak and tunk oil in the videos, the epoxy table glows and becomes transparent.
    what advice do you give.
    Bursa / Turkey

  26. Great article and follow-on advice, so thank you.
    I’m wondering if you can give some thoughts on bonding strength. I’m working to build a live edge sliding barn door to use on my pantry. I’ll be using two large pieces of ash with much of the center being filled in with colored epoxy. So I need the epoxy to have a strong lasting bond.
    Will applying a sealant first affect the bond strength? Should I be concerned with the hardness of the expoxy or any flexibility of it? Since the door will be used continuously and get jolted a lot I want to make sure I consider this.

    • Hello Glenn.

      Regarding bond strength, it doesn’t really matter whether the wood is sealed or not. Fully cured epoxy is hard and creates a strong bond. I never used the epoxy for moving parts before but I think I will work.

  27. Hi William,

    Thanks for the great reviews of the top 10 epoxies, very thorough and detailed writeups. I have one question for you; a lot of the woodworking stores/websites recommend the West Systems epoxies. Do you have any experience with their products or know how they compare to your top 10 list? I’m at the finishing stage for a black walnut slab table and am trying to select the best epoxy finish to use.

    Thanks again,


  28. Hello William, great article. For the #10 option you provided you stated “Not certified as safe for food by the FDA” as a con. Can you tell me which one of these resins is certified by the FDA as safe for food?


  29. Hi Alex: I have a cookie slab that I’m going to use as a coffee table. I’m ready to begin the epoxy process, although I keep hesitating because I’m so worried about messing it up. I have a large split that I need to fill. I’ve watched several videos and it seems to be done many different ways. The way I’m leaning toward is taping the top and filling from the back. Have you ever done this. This video stated that the bubbles would actually rise to the top (which in theory would be the bottom) and when you removed the tape you should not have bubbles. Also, do a seal coat first before doing the flood coat? I’ve seen videos showing both ways. Thank you for any info you can provide.

    • Hi Carol.

      I would recommend sealing just to make sure there won’t be any bubbles later on. The way of filling you described seems strange to me. Why not to fill the crack as it is, namely when the slab is its original position. You pour a layer, remove bubbles with a heat gun and repeat.

  30. I have a nice live-edge slab of black walnut and am thinking of making a river table. Will ProMarine work for deep, single pours (about 1.5-inches), or do you need to do successive layers of smaller pours?

    • Hi Kevin.

      I don’t think any of the epoxies will work for 1.5 inches. Better do smaller pours for better results.

  31. Hi William, I am looking to redo the Wood on my bay window. My 2 labs love to jump up in the window and have it all scratched up. If I repaint it white and then epoxy do you think it would hold up ?

  32. Great, informative review! I have never tried an epoxy resin project, but would like too!! This article really helped and answered a bunch of questions, thank you. Now, when are you going to do an article on the best dyes to use?? Or have you already!

    • Hey Christopher, love the feedback – of course we have an article on both interior and exterior recommended stains to dye your wood. Check them out and for any comment you may have we’re here for you.

  33. William, I was not very clear on my comment, I was referring to best dyes/colorants to use in the pro-marine resin itself, also, have you ever used any phosphorescent/glow-in-the-dark colorants in the epoxy? How does that turn out? Recommendations?

  34. William,

    Is it ok to seal the wood and epoxy resin with polyurethane…or just the wood and avoid the epoxy.

    • Yes, it is ok to seal both the wood and epoxy with polyurethane. Polyurethane on epoxy actually helps it outlast.

  35. Hi,
    I want to learn about Epoxy Resin art work with wood. May I know the which type or specifically name of resin to be used for art work with wood. Any Technical Data Sheet ?
    Tutorial material available to use ? I am located in UAE.

    • This epoxy resin by Zdsticky or Dr. Crafty is good to use with wood or anything at your local hardware store will work. Everything you need should be in the kit and all the instructions too on how to do it. I would suggest watching a video on it too.

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