Top Pick – The Best Finish for Your Kitchen Table
Don’t tell me you don’t know of General Finishes. It’s one of the most trusted brands on the market of wood finishes. Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat is a long-lasting durable finish that will keep the beauty of your table for years.
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Choosing the best finish for your wooden kitchen table is an important decision. After all, you probably use the table every day, which means that the finish needs to be durable.
What’s more, since the table comes into contact with food — especially if you have little ones — it needs to be safe for a kitchen when it cures.
Whether you’re refinishing an antique kitchen table or transforming a thrift-store find, the right finish makes a big difference.
Best Finishes for Wood Kitchen Table in September, 2023
| Finish | Coverage (quart) | Recoat dry (hours) | Sheen | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | General Finishes Topcoat Editor's Choice | 100-125 sq ft | 12-24 | gloss, satin, semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 2 | Minwax Fast Drying Poly | 125 sq ft | 4-6 | gloss, satin, semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 3 | Varathane Oil Poly | up to 140 sq ft | 8-10 | gloss, satin, semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 4 | General Finishes Enduro-Var | 125 -150 sq ft | 4 | gloss, satin, semi-gloss, flat | Check Price |
| 5 | Waterlox Satin Finish | 125 sq ft | 24 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 6 | Rust-Oleum Polyurethane | up to 50 sq ft | 2 | gloss, satin, semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 7 | Old Masters Gel Poly | 175 sq ft | 6 | satin | Check Price |
| 8 | Wood Shield Varnish | 150 sq ft | 4 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 9 | Valspar Cabot Polyurethane | 125 sq ft | 4 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 10 | Rust-Oleum Oil-Based | up to 100 sq ft | 4 | satin, gloss | Check Price |
| 11 | Behlen Rockhard Urethane Varnish | up to 140 sq ft | 14 | satin | Check Price |
1. General Finishes SGQT Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat — Great Finish for Kitchen Table Top
Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat is a tough, long-lasting wood finish that comes in a can with a pry-off lid. You can buy it in a variety of sizes, which can help reduce waste if you’re refinishing a very small or very large kitchen table.
This finish is made with urethane resin, which means that it’s extremely durable. If you apply it according to the directions, it can last for many years before it needs to be reapplied. For a kitchen table, this might be ideal. Once it’s dry, it tolerates cleaning with Clorox wipes, so you can disinfect your table easily.
You can apply Arm-R-Seal with a cloth or a foam brush. It’s relatively easy to remove the drips, though you need to do it right away to prevent drying. It’s also a good idea to apply this product in a well-ventilated area.
Since this Arm-R-Seal product is oil-based, it has a few drawbacks. It tends to dry in a rich amber color — it looks nice, but if you’re not expecting it, or if it doesn’t go with your final look, it can be an issue. The oil content also means that the finish takes a long time to cure. In fact, the company recommends that you don’t clean the table for 30 days after you apply the last coat.
Overall, this oil-based finish is recommended for more advanced woodworkers. It might take a bit of time to get the hang of the application process, but once you do, the end result looks near-professional.
- Extremely durable
- Easy wipe-on application
- Natural look
- Yellow hue
- Long curing time
- Can damage wax coats underneath
2. Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Finish — Worthy Versatile Finish
Minwax Fast Drying Finish can be used on both finished and unfinished wood, making it a convenient option when you’re not sure if you’ll apply a primary finish. It can be applied with a natural bristle brush, a lambswool applicator, or a foam brush.
One of the big benefits of Minwax Wipe-On Poly is its drying time. As long as you apply thin coats, the finish dries quickly. This is an advantage if you’re working in a dusty workshop or an outdoor area — the faster your finish dries, the less likely it is that dirt, dust, or debris will get trapped in it. Each thin layer takes just a couple of hours to dry completely. Then, you can use sandpaper to scuff it gently and apply the next coat. This product is extremely forgiving, so it’s easy to achieve a beautiful end result.
It’s important to note that although this Minwax finish is clear, it’s probably going to change the color of your wooden table slightly. This is because of the oil in the product. The color change is small but visible. If you like a warmer look to your wood, this could be a great choice for you.
The drawback to this Minwax finish is the number of coats you need. Minwax recommends two or three coats. However, since your kitchen table is a heavy-use piece of furniture, you’ll probably actually need four or five coats for durability. Between applying, sanding, and drying, that means that the refinishing process is going to take a considerable amount of time.
If you have the patience, however, this Minwax product creates a beautiful finished result. We recommend it for more advanced woodworkers.
- Flexible application options
- Prevents food stains
- Durable and long-lasting
- Requires multiple coats
- Needs sanding between coats
- Can cause yellowing over paint
3. Rust-Oleum Oil Polyurethane Satin Finish — Ideal for Highlighting Wood Grain
If you’re looking to finish a kitchen table that gets regular use, this Rust-Oleum product can be a great choice. It’s designed specifically for heavy-use areas, so it’s extra durable.
If your kitchen table has a beautiful wood grain, this finish is one way to highlight it; it’s designed to allow the grain to show through. The warm tone of the finish shows off the intricacies of each piece of wood in your table.
As you’re using this, be prepared — it has an extremely strong smell. This is completely normal, but it’s a good idea to work in a well-ventilated area. The finish dries very quickly, so it’s a good idea to wipe up any drips immediately.
Although this product is billed as clear, it actually adds a golden glow to the wood.
I recommend this Rust-Oleum finish, particularly if you’re finishing a table with a prominent grain. It’s not recommended for use over paint because of the tendency to yellow upon drying.
- Goes on smoothly
- Easy to use
- Dries into a very hard surface
- Can create a yellowish look if used over paint
- Takes 4+ coats
- Some spots dry white
4. General Finishes Enduro-Var – The Workhorse
This is a high-end clear coat that is intended for durability rather than beauty so it would be a good choice for high traffic surface of kitchen table. I say that because even the company admits that this coating will turn yellow with age. They say that it will “amber slightly,” so at least they are honest about this flaw.
This Coating Seems To Cause Very Few Complaints
This product gets very good reviews overall. Only one out of ten reviewers seem to be unhappy. Most of the positive reviews focus on the fact that this is a water-based finish that functions somewhat like an oil-based finish. This means that it produces a slicker, shinier look, and also preserves the grain of wood surfaces by soaking in (to a certain extent).
Durability Over Beauty
Biggest Downside: Cost
On the negative side, this is a very expensive finish. In fact, it is tied for the title of most expensive paint (with the ECOS paint, to be exact). However, the cost goes down significantly if you buy this paint by the gallon instead of the quart.
- Combines the qualities of a water-based paint with some of the qualities of an oil-based paint.
- Creates a durable and water-resistant coating.
- Available in flat, gloss, semi-gloss, and satin.
- Although this coating is expensive, the price goes down significantly if you buy it in the gallon size.
- One of the most expensive finishes on this list.
- Advertising admits that the paint will “amber” slightly, which is a nice way of saying that it will turn yellow with age.
- Cannot entirely replace an oil paint for most purposes. It has the sheen, but that’s about all.
5. Waterlox Original Satin Finish — Nice Soft Gloss
If your kitchen table has a great deal of detail, this Waterlox finish can show it off. The finish has a gentle, pleasing gloss that highlights carvings and beautiful joinery, but it’s not so glossy that it shows fingerprints.
Waterlox Original is made from tung oil. The oil penetrates the surface of your wood, creating a water-resistant finish. That means that it stands up well to spilled milk, heavy use, and other liquids. If your kitchen table gets a medium level of activity, this could be a good option. It’s also relatively easy to maintain.
Keep in mind that this Waterlox option can’t be used alone — you’ll also need to apply the Waterlox sealer, or a sealer from another brand.
Waterlox is recommended for your kitchen table if you want a gentle gloss. It stands up to low-use and medium-use households nicely.
- Water-resistant
- Partly made from renewable natural resources
- Soft gloss
- Very strong smell
- Requires a separate sealer
- Tends to streak
6. Rust-Oleum Triple Thick Polyurethane – The Efficient Option
With this coating, we can see that the people at Rust-Oleum did their best to create a unique (and uniquely useful) product. The whole idea behind this coating is to offer a clear coat that is meant to be applied thickly. This is meant to not only increase coverage, but also to save time finishing your table.
This Product Is Meant To Be A Time-Saver
Saving time seems to be one of the main priorities in the design of this coating. As I already mentioned, this finish is meant to be applied in thick coats. This means fewer coats per project, and thus less time spent. Also, I can say that this is a fast-drying product, which also saves time.
One Relatively Serious Flaw
Although there are many good reviews for this product, the negative reviews are pretty consistent. Most of them say that they had a difficult time creating a level coating. In other words, the self-leveling feature probably doesn’t work as well as advertised. Some have even reported ruining entire pieces of furniture with this coating.
A Good Option For Those With A Tight Budget
On the upside, this is one of the most inexpensive finishes on the list, which makes it the ideal choice for those on a budget. The leveling problems can probably be dealt with by using a slightly thinner coat. When the label on the can tells you to apply a coating three times thicker than you normally would, it is easy for people to go too far.
- Meant to be applied thickly, which saves time and reduces the number of coats needed.
- Very inexpensive. In fact, this is one of the most inexpensive coatings on our list if you are buying by the quart.
- Self-leveling formula means that you don’t have to worry about sanding. Another time-saving feature.
- Superior coverage, according to the advertising.
- Quick-drying
- Forms a hard layer, like most water-based finishes.
- Some customers say that the paint is too thick, making it hard to apply smoothly.
- Self-leveling feature does not seem to work. This coating might only be good for small projects as a result.
- Produces some yellowing over time.
7. Old Masters Gel Polyurethane – The Choice For The Finest Surfaces
As the name of this product implies, it is meant for the finer projects. You wouldn’t want to use this kind of finish on your outdoor cabinet, or the surface of your back porch. In fact, the manufacturer specifically states that you should not use this product for floors.
Beauty Over Durability
Very Effective For Its Intended Purpose
One of the things that stands out about this product is the fact that it gets universally good reviews. Of the product reviews that we observed, not a single one had anything bad to say. Part of this is due to the fact that Old Masters is a special-use coating that focuses on one particular market and does everything right.
- Oil-based formula provides superior shine.
- Gel-like consistency allows this coating to be applied with a cloth, or with a paper towel.
- Produces a soft finish with a hand-rubbed look.
- Meant for fine-quality wood such as you might find in an antique table.
- Not particularly expensive.
- Universally good reviews. I was unable to find a single negative review.
- Oil-based finishes are softer by nature, and this one is meant to be even softer than usual. As such, it would not be suitable for projects that require a lot of impact resistance.
- Wiping the coating onto the surface by hand is problematic because of the nasty and toxic odors that come from this product. Still, a mask will remedy this problem.
8. Wood Shield Interior Varnish – The Eco-Option
The ECOS semi-gloss varnish is another water-based coating, and this one is meant for the environmental purist. It is made with no volatile compounds at all, which means that it will not give off any harmful odors and it’s great for the kitchen.
A Great Idea For Those With Sensitive Lungs
For those with breathing problems and similar health conditions, finish like this would be very handy. It would allow a person who suffers from asthma (for instance) to complete their project without having to risk their life by using something that gives off harsh fumes. However, this kind of thing isn’t a big concern for normal and healthy individuals.
No Worries About Pollution
The makers have also refrained from adding any pesticides or antimicrobial substances to the paint, just to make sure that none of these poisonous chemicals are leached into the soil. However, this product does have its practical side as well.
The Practical Benefits
This product is very time-efficient because it dries very quickly when compared to most other clear coats. ECOS varnish will dry to the touch within 30-45 minutes and can be sanded or painted in 2 hours. This is very good when compared to most of the competition. The all-natural formula also means that you can easily clean up any spills with soap and water.
- This coating has no harsh toxic odors, making it much more pleasant to use.
- This varnish does not yellow with age.
- Full disclosure of all ingredients. This is very reassuring.
- This product is made to be environmentally friendly so that you don’t have to worry about polluting when doing an outdoor project.
- Dries to the touch within 30 minutes, and can be sanded within 2 hours.
- One of the most expensive coatings on the list
- Emphasis on environmentalism might be a little bit excessive. The advertising seems to focus mostly upon this factor.
- Not really necessary for healthy individuals.
9. Valspar Cabot Interior Oil-Based Polyurethane – An Expensive Wonder
This is another product that aims to combine the qualities of a water-based finish and an oil-based finish. Unlike the first choice on my list, this one is meant to provide the gloss and beauty of an oil-based finish while also maintaining the hard and durable finish that is normally associated with water-based coatings.
Another Hybrid Clear Coat
I can say that this hybrid actually achieves its purpose. It looks far better than a water-based finish, being completely free from the dull and plasticized appearance that polyurethane can sometimes have (especially when it gets old). At the same time, it does a very good job of resisting scuffs and impact. I had to wonder how they achieved this effect, but now I can tell one thing right away: this quality comes at a high price.
Fast-Drying (For An Oil-Based Coating)
Although these types of coatings do not usually dry quicker than water-based paints, this one almost achieves that goal. It dries to the touch within 30-60 minutes and can be sanded or painted within 2-3 hours. Not particularly bad for oil paint, though nowhere near as fast as most others on our list.
Only Sold In Half-Pints
This is definitely not the choice for a big project unless you have very deep pockets and are willing to shell out some serious bucks. This ridiculously low cost-to-amount ratio is the only major downside to this product, but it is a pretty big problem for those who can’t afford to break the bank on a weekend project.
- Successfully combines the qualities of water-based paint and oil-based paint.
- Fast-drying, at least when compared to most other products of its type.
- Produces a very durable finish.
- Much higher shine than a water-based alternative.
- Very expensive.
- Only sold in half-pint cans.
10. Rust-Oleum Varathane Interior Oil Polyurethane – Doesn’t Hide the Grain
It’s another oil-based Rust-Oleum polyurethane. I will let you determine if it’s worth its price.
The Best Of Both Worlds
Like an oil finish, this product gives a rich and dark shine that instantly makes a piece of wood look classy. For antique furniture, this look is often preferred, and it isn’t hard to see why. All trees will naturally contain certain oils that work to keep it healthy. After the tree has been cut down, those oils have to be supplied by you.
Unlike some finishes, this one doesn’t hide the grain of the wood. It remains very visible and dries very hard like a water-based poly product. In fact, some people have complained that this product is too hard to remove, but I think that is a good thing.
The Problems
This one is kind of thick and tacky, so you won’t have a lot of working time when you start brushing it in place. This ultra-tackiness also seems to negate the self-leveling feature that is advertised, as brush strokes can easily be left on its surface. Dry time is at least two hours, so plan on taking a little bit longer with this one.
- Gives a rich, dark, and shiny finish
- Made for maximum durability
- Doesn’t hide the grain of the wood
- Much more permanent than an oil finish
- Price is very affordable
- Long dry time
- Very thick and tacky
- Self-leveling feature is not apparent
11. Behlen Rockhard Table Top Urethane Varnish Satin — Great for Busy Kitchens
Does your kitchen table see a lot of activity? If so, this Behlen Rockhard product could be the right choice. The formula dries hard, so it can help resist scratches and nicks.
The best thing about this Behlen finish is its durability. Once it’s cured, the finish prevents abrasions; it also resists water and detergents, which is helpful if your kitchen table doubles as a homework station or play area.
After you’re finished applying this finish, it needs at least 48 hours to dry completely, assuming the temperature in your workshop is at least 72 degrees. If you live in a cold or damp area, you can expect the drying time to be longer.
The long dry time of this option can be an issue if you’re planning to apply multiple coats. In fact, you need to wait at least 14 hours between coats. While this isn’t a deal-breaker, it’s important to work the timeline into your planning.
Overall, I recommend this product, but only if you have a well-ventilated shop and plenty of time for drying. However, if you have the patience, you can achieve a long-lasting finish.
- Extremely hard finish
- Resists water and chemicals
- Prevents scratches
- Strong smell
- Long dry time
- Complicated application
Buyer’s Guide
Finishing your wooden kitchen table takes time and effort. When you choose the right option for your skills and lifestyle, you can get the job done right on the first try. As you look at different options, here are some factors that can influence your decision.
Ease of Application
As you’re looking at different types of finishes, application matters. Are you new to wood finishing? If so, you might want to go for a finish that wipes on — that way, you don’t need to worry about making mistakes.
If you’re a more advanced woodworker, you can opt for spray-on finishes or brush-on finishes. Both of those options require more skill, so they’re not ideal for beginners. If you prefer to spray-finish your wooden table, check the manufacturer’s instructions; not all wood finishes are compatible with a spray gun.
Understanding Types of Wood Finishes
You can choose from a wide range of finish options, each one with different advantages and disadvantages. Some common types are:
Oil finishes
Oil finishes add a bit of depth and color to unfinished wood. They also protect the wood, making them ideal for kitchen use.
Water-based finishes
These finishes dry clear, which gives your table a slick, glossy look
Varnish
Varnish is a clear finish that dries extremely slowly, and may be difficult to apply. Usually, they’re best when paired with another finish, such as dye.
Shellac
This material is made from wax and solvents. It’s easy to apply, but it’s not durable enough for a heavy-use kitchen table.
The Durability of Wood Finishes
Since you’re refinishing a kitchen table that gets heavy daily use, durability matters. After all, you’re probably going to eat on the table every day, you’ll need to wipe it down every day. You might also drop your keys and bags on the table, use it to prepare food, or use it as an arts and crafts section.
All of these activities take a toll on the finish — so, to get the most bang for your buck, it’s a good idea to pick the most durable finish. Varnish and oil-based poly finishes are the most durable. Tung oil and linseed oil are relatively durable. In general, it’s best to stay away from shellac. Lacquer can be tough, but it tends to take on a yellow color as time goes by.
Location of Your Finishing Area
Many wood finishes are made with strong chemicals. This means that they have intense smells. If you’re working in an area with minimal ventilation, or if the weather won’t allow you to keep doors and windows open, it can affect your choice.
In general, water-based finishes tend to be less potent; they might be the right choice when you have limited air circulation. Ventilation is especially important if you’re using a spray-on finish.
Frequently Asked Questions
There are plenty of good oil and wax-based products on the market, and you can certainly use these products to finish a wooden table. Oil and wax-based products offer a way to bring out the natural beauty of the wood without any kind of plastic. They also add a lot of moisture resistance to a wooden table, since oil and wax are hydrophobic.
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The application of polyurethane to wood is quite easy, and there are multiple methods. The most common method is to brush it on with a paintbrush. If you go this route, I would recommend a soft foam brush, as it is less likely to leave streaks and other unsightly marks. I would also urge you to make sure that you wait for the recommended amount of time between coats. Otherwise, your bottom coats will never fully dry and may remain cloudy.
If you want to make things easier, you can just get a can of spray-on polyurethane. This tends to be a little more expensive, but its an ideal choice for small tasks. You can just hang the item from a wire and give the whole thing a nice, even spray. Of course, you do have to make sure that you spray evenly to avoid leaving unsightly globs and drips of excess plastic.
Whatever method you choose, the application of a polyurethane layer should always be the last thing you do to the table. This polyurethane top-coat provides the first line of defense against damage, so you don’t have much choice there.
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If you want to get the strongest protection for your outdoor table, a wood sealer will need to be applied. The whole purpose of a wood sealer is to penetrate the wood and provide deep protection. This will turn the first inch or so of your wood into a moisture-resistant layer. As good luck would have it, these products are very easy to use.
The first step is to clean the surface of the table. Any little bit of dirt could prevent proper adhesion, so be meticulous here. If the table has any traces of a previous finish, those will also have to go. Depending on the condition of the surface, light sanding might also be in order. In short, you need a smooth, clean surface. If you are going to use a stain, you should use it before applying the sealer.
The next step is to get out your sealer. There are all kinds of wood sealer products on the market, but they all do more or less the same thing. Using a paintbrush, transfer the sealer to the cleaned surface with nice, long strokes. Make sure that you don’t leave any drip marks or streaks as you go, as you don’t want those mistakes to harden in place.
From there, you just have to wait until the sealer dries. Drying time will vary by brand, so consult the label. Sealers do not usually require a second coat, but you can go ahead and do one if you want to be extra thorough.
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In most cases, you should definitely put some kind of finish on your wooden table. There are many reasons to do this, but most of it comes down to durability. Uncoated wood won’t last as long as wood that has been treated with a good surface finish. Not only that, but there are obvious advantages when it comes to the beauty of the wood.
In general, wood finishes can be classified as either clear-coats or stains. The main difference is that a clear-coat does not alter the color of the wood while a stain does. If desired, these two options can be combined for a mix of beauty and durability.
A good finish, whether a clear-coat or a stain, gives you a chance to lock out moisture and remove the risk of rot, mold, or mildew. Without water, none of these things can occur, and most finishes will block it very well. For a table, a good top-coating is even more essential because this surface will need to hold up against spills and other accidents.
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This is not a case in which one choice will be perfect for everyone. We all have different preferences when it comes to appearance, so the key is to go with whatever pleases you. Overall, smooth and glossy finishes are more popular for tables. Most tasks for which a table is used can be done better with a perfectly smooth surface.
As a first step, decide if you want to alter the natural look of the wood. If so, you will want to use a stain of some sort, and you might also choose an oil-based finish to darken the wood while giving it a rich shine. If not, your wood sealer and/or polyurethane top-coat should bring out the grain very nicely without changing the natural appearance in any major way.
If we had to pick one option as the best, I would recommend an oil-based polyurethane product. This will provide the desired level of smoothness while also giving the most long-lasting finish. A table will normally see a lot of hard use, and many different things might be spilled on its surface. Thus, you need to go with the heavy-duty stuff here.
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Conclusion
When you’re refinishing a wood kitchen table, the finish you choose matters. By doing your research and choosing the product that’s right for your skill level and project, you can achieve a beautiful finish.
Got a question on a finishing project – feel free to ask us, we’re here for you!
William,
Great article, very informative. Taught me more then the rest of the internet, no lie! I have a largeish (about 20 sq. ft.) butcher block countertop i turned into a table. I tried going with the mineral oil and beeswax and it still picks up stains (though liquids do tend to clean up easily). another issue is that papers will always develop oil stains if left on that table. no one mentions that in the DIY articles! I was thinking i should seal and stain – what is the process since I’ve muddied it up with all the oil and wax? do i sand down some and then seal and topcoat? How many coats of each? It’s only about 1.25″ to 1.5″ thick – not sure how much i can afford to take off. i like the idea of the satin finish but i still need it to withstand food, hot casseroles from the oven (on a trivet of course) and toddlers, what do you think the best options are? thank you so much for your advice and sharing with us.
Hi, Jayce.
It’s not too difficult to remove wax and oil from wood, although it does need sanding. You won’t need to take too much off as the oil doesn’t soak too far into the wood.
Start sanding with 150-grit sandpaper and steadily work through finer grits until you reach 220-grit. Vacuum and clean the area with a painter’s tack cloth to be sure all dust is removed. Then coat with satin oil-based polyurethane (https://geni.us/RRnAFR).
The oil-based poly will take longer to dry, but it’ll last twice as long; also, it’s cheaper than the water-based product. Thin the first two coats of polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply light coats. Then do two more coats at 75% polyurethane and 25% mineral spirits. Lightly sand between each coat when dry, using 220-grit sandpaper. The sanding smooths and levels the polyurethane while allowing a keying surface for the next coat.
Be sure to dedust thoroughly each time. If money is no object and you decide to use water-based polyurethane (https://geni.us/T9c00), apply five coats, but do not thin – apply from the tin.
Thanks for the article. I’ve been using a beeswax polish on my table which hasn’t been standing up to the daily wear and tear. I’d like to put a more durable finish on the table but am not sure how to proceed. From your article it sounds like an oil based polyurethane is what I’m after. Do I need to strip off the beeswax layer before applying the new finish? Thanks in advance!
Hello Aline.
Yes, oil-based polyurethane is the way to go if your table is used daily. It’s better not to use polyurethane on top of the wax.
You do need to strip off the beeswax before applying polyurethane.
In case you seek recommended polyurethane for the job, you can use this product by ZAR; It is Smooth, self-leveling, Tough abrasion-resistant finish.
Just curious which one would withstand the daily table traffic: Warm plates, dinner pots on trivets, condensation, etc.
Hello Veejay, you can use this product by Rust-Oleum.
It gives a rich, dark, and shiny finish, it provides maximum durability and doesn’t hide the grain of the wood.
Hi William,
I just bought a small table that suits my needs exactly as it is, with factory satin finish. However I’d like to add a clear smooth coat of something that will protect it from scratching a bit more than the factory finish. I’m stumped for what to use after reading through most of your site, since you’re mostly dealing with woods that are unfinished. What would you recommend?
Thanks!
Hello Wendy, hope you are doing well.
There is something oddly satisfying about finding the right furniture that exactly fits our need, good to hear that you found one. For your application I would recommend this finish by Minwax.
This will add a protective layer above the finish of your table and will not alter the aesthetics of the table. Apply 2 to 3 coats for the best results.
Hi William
I have a wooden kitchen table with the surface being a veneer which has a water based finish which has started to become sticky and any paper etc left by accident leaves marks.
I have been told that I need to strip this off and then re-coat.
can you advise me how best to do this.
Hi Phil, first it is good to apply a detergent to remove old coatings like this one by Dumond.
This way you will remove the old varnish with relatively little effort without having to throw away a bunch of sandpaper.
Then sand gently with P220 sandpaper. Be careful when sanding near the edges because there is the highest probability of abrasion of the veneer.
If necessary, you can fill some gaps with filler and sand the filler; this article may be useful to you.
Then, if you wish, you can apply a stain to give color to the veneer.
Finally, apply the varnish, preferably at least 3 hands.
It is good to sand between the layers: once one layer is dry, sand, and then apply the next layer.
When you get a thick and smooth finish, then you are done with the application and only the varnish will dry until it hardens completely.
I recommend product number one on the list.
Hi- I have refinished our kitchen table once already, about 5-6 years ago. I Used Minwax fast dry polyurethane to finish it, and did four coats. I was disappointed because it was smooth during application, but as it dried, there were visible ‘grooves’ along the wood’s grain. Does this mean that I did not prepare the wood correctly, or did I just need to keep adding layers until it evened out? I want the surface to be flat, and durable. I dislike the tacky feeling as this finish has aged, and we are ready to refinish again, so looking for advice. Thanks!
Hi Nancy, probably the mass was not smooth enough before applying the varnish.
A few things you need to know about a great finish:
The wood must be well prepared and with good smoothness sandpaper P220 and more. Then sand between the layers with sandpaper P 320 – 400 or a sanding sponge like this one. Apply 3-4 coats evenly applied.
Keep in mind that when the varnish is applied it really looks smoother and denser but after the solvents evaporate the layer becomes a little thinner and the varnish accepts the unevenness of the wood. When you have a smooth solid and flat base you will get a smooth finish without channels.
I think that if you sand the old coating evenly and then apply 4 coats you will get an excellent finish.
I just had a farm table made out of white oak from out property. I applied minwax pre stain and apply minwax stain (2) coats. I want to apply a high gloss clear coat Oil base polyurethane on It. What brand would you recommend? It is 9 ft. Length and 3 ft. Width. Should I wipe it in or use a foam brush and I am looking to apply 4 coats with sanding between coats.
Thank you.
Hi Robert.
I must note that you have gathered a lot of useful information and you have orientated yourself well. 😉
This varnish will do a great job, has excellent durability and has a glossy finish.
You can use both a wipe and a foam brush. When you usually wipe, the layer is thinner and dries faster, but you may need to apply more coats. Choose an option that will be more convenient for you or you have more experience.
Four coats should suffice. Sand between the layers with grid P 320-400.
Hi
I have an old oak refectory table that I have sanded. Not far enough reading your article so need to get into this. I have walnut in my kitchen so would like the table top to reflect this, any recommendations on stain and top coat?
Also I am going to paint the base and legs in a light grey, do I need to put a top coat on this?
Thanks
Hi Suzie.
For a really good finish, first make sure that the table is well sanded, without remnants of the old coating, and has a good smoothness.
Choose the stain according to the walnut you have and according to the samples of the stain.
This stain by Minwax will do a good job, has a wide variety of colors, and will make a beautiful finish.
Then you can cover with top oil-based varnish as number one in the list. Advice:
After choosing the color of the stain, first, apply to a small area on the underside of the countertop or elsewhere where it is not too visible. This way you will be sure that the color is correct.
If you want a darker shade, apply another layer of the stain and when you achieve the desired result, apply a transparent varnish to protect the tabletop.
It is not necessary to cover the gray paint with a coating because the base and legs do not have as much load as the countertop. However, the additional protection is not superfluous and if you have remaining coverage and time you can apply. Make sure the paint and topcoat are compatible.
Im getting ready to refinish a maple kitchen table. My thought is to stain with a oil based stain then apply either Cabot Oil based poly satin or Behlen Rockhard urethane satin as a top coat. I plan to have the finish dipped as to remove all old ain and varnish, sand w. 400 grit and finish. I have a well ventilated garage tp work in . Im looking forward to you thoughts and directions. Thank you. Mike
Hello Mike, I congratulate you for the knowledge you have and the choice you have made.
Get rid of the old coating until you reach a tree. Start with a larger sandpaper at the beginning to remove the old varnish and gradually use a finer one (P150 – P220 – P320 ..).
If necessary, sand with P400 between coats.
Regarding both varnishes, both are good choices and will do an excellent job.
The Cabot version will work easier and faster but is a bit expensive.
The Behlen version is an example of how you have to work hard to get the good stuff. The high hardness means that the table will look like it has just been varnished for a long time. Keep in mind, however, that the longer the drying period, the more likely it is that some unwanted dust will stick to the varnish (this is quite unpleasant). Your garage should be very clean and you should not do anything until the table dries.
Judge according to your own preferences.
I am sure that you will make the table beautiful and it will make you happy for a long time.
Hello- Thank you SO much for taking the time to write this article. I am refinishing a kitchen table. I have stripped and sanded the table and now ready to complete with a protective coating of ?!
I purchased a quart of General Finishes Oil Based Arm-R-Seal in satin. After reading all your advice on the subject, I don’t know if I made the best choice.
What is the difference between that and the General Finishes Urethane Topcoat? Should I return/exhange what I have for your top choice?
This is a kitchen table I hope won’t show water marks from glasses or food spills.
Also, I will not be able to take the table outside for ventilation. I was just planning on opening doors and windows and use fans to ventilate.
I would greatly appreciate your suggestion! And, thanks again for sharing your talent and knowledge with us!
Shelley 🙂
Hi Shelley, I’m glad your article was useful!
Each product has advantages and disadvantages and we choose them according to what advantages we want and what disadvantages we can accept.
General Finishes Oil Based Arm-R-Seal is a really good product with great durability but the drying process is long with an unpleasant odor. It is more appropriate to apply when working in a room where you do not live and you can wait before using the table.
General Finishes Urethane Topcoat will do a good job for a dining table is also healthy and durable. Its life a little shorter but the application process will be faster and less smelly.
In your case, I think it would really be better to use this product.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, apply well and you will enjoy good coverage.
Not recommended for coating over white paint and light colors because it turns yellow.
Hello! Thank-you for this article- it was very helpful! I just finished weeks of using chemical strippers, sanding, scraping, crying, etc. getting an old dining room table ready to paint. I would love it to have kind of a “factory finish” or as smooth as I could get it. I’m painting it white, and so I know that limits me with the yellowing oil based products out there, but I’d love it to be really durable and smooth too. I was thinking of going with a white lacquer spray from Rustoleum, (I’m using spray paint primer and rustoleum 2x paint + primer too to avoid brush/roll marks) but I’d say durability and scratch resistance would be the most important, without yellowing. After all that work, I want it to last forever. What do you suggest?
Hi Rachel, I’m glad I was useful to you.
You have done 90% of the dirty work and now you have a little more work left to get the result you want 🙂
To get a nice smooth finish (in some cases better than the factory finish) you have to be precise at every stage.
Before applying anything, you should have a nice smooth base to be done with P180 sandpaper, without scratches, cracks, and injuries.
Then apply a primer (you can use the paint with which you will paint for a primer).
After it dries well, sand with P220 sandpaper or finer (sand very lightly to remove small bumps.
Then apply another coat of paint. After drying, you can sand with fine sandpaper if there are irregularities.
You can use paint like this by Rust-Oleum.
For a strong coating that does not turn yellow, you can use water-based varnish for floors like this by Rust-Oleum as well.
Apply one or more coats until you like the smooth finish.
Spraying gives you good smoothness but this is usually a more expensive option and if you have no experience the result may not be so good.
Some varnishes and paints get a good end result with a brush.
When applying with a brush:
– Use a wide soft brush
– Dilute the varnish or paint according to the instructions, it should not be too thick
– Apply a thick amount
– Makes movements along the entire length of the table
– There should be so much varnish that almost drips on the edge of the table (but not to flow)
You need to try harder but in the end, you will have a wonderful result.
Hello
I have a solid hard rock tiger maple kitchen table from Link Taylor. It has a clear coat on it but it is beginning to wear off in places. Is it possible to put a new coat over what is on there now? If so what should I use.. I purchased the table in the late 1970s. I want to protect the wood. I love this table. Thank you.
Hi Barbara, our favorite items require maintenance to make us happy for a longer time 🙂
If the transparent coating is worn next to wood (in places) then it is good to remove the entire coating from the top and sides of the tabletop. It usually takes time and energy but the result is really good. The removal of the old coating can be done with a sandpaper machine with sandpaper P120 – P150 – P240 in this order.
Usually, the legs of the table are not so affected and can only be scratched with P240 sandpaper and then varnished with one or two coats. For the tabletop, after reaching the wood and finishing with P240 sandpaper, apply one coat of varnish, then remove the unevenness with fine sandpaper P320 and then apply one or two coats of varnish.
I recommend an oil-based polyurethane varnish such as this product by General Finishes.
It is possible to give a slightly yellowish tint and a few days after varnishing to have an unpleasant odor, but you will have a strong coating suitable for the kitchen table.
Oil-based varnish will adhere better to the old varnish (it is the table legs) than water-based varnish.
Hi William
I’m really struggling and hope that you can help. I’m in the process of making an Ash topped kitchen table using virgin wood so no previous coatings or treatments. I’m after a satin finish – certainly not a shiny glossy finish, but also want to bring out the grain but without making the timber too dark. Being a kitchen table it needs to withstand spillages, and preferably be resilient to the bottom of a hot cup without leaving a ring. All this and want it to look as natural as possible – so no brush marks from thick coats or varnish etc, maybe something I could rub in with a cloth over a couple of coats?
This maybe asking the impossible but any advice would be really appreciated.
Many thanks,
Sam
For the best protection for your kitchen table, I would suggest using a spar varnish or spar urethane. Spar varnish helps to protect the wood from water and UV radiation which means hot cups shouldn’t leave a mark. I would recommend using this clear satin spar urethane finish by Minwax on Amazon. Since this varnish is clear the wood should still look natural with no gloss.
Hi.. Wondering if Sherman Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel Trim paint is durable enough to redo an oak dining room table …and would it need a final topcoat? Thank you
That paint should work on the oak dining room table. A topcoat isn’t necessary but I would recommend it for better protection and the best look on the table. If you decide to use a topcoat, I would recommend this polycrylic topcoat by Minwax on Amazon.
Thank you, William, for this very helpful and detailed explanation of each product!
NP Dawn, my pleasure.
Hi thank you for taking my question. I placed a hot dish on my wood kitchen table and now there is a white stain that won’t come off. I was thinking of sanding and then applying stain then polyurethane. Would my table be able to withstand hot items without having a white stain occur after I refinish it?
The sanding, staining, and polyurethane will definitely help protect your table. I don’t know if it will forever keep your table from getting heat damage again though. I know that direct sunlight overtime on polyurethane will break down and weaken its protection. I would recommend any varnish to help protect your table from heat such as spar varnish. You can get this varnish online or at any hardware store, but if you are to use polyurethane, I would use an oil-based polyurethane because it is more durable. Even using something like linseed oil will do the trick.
Can I use a water based top coat/sealer over an oil based stain?
Hi,
Yes, you can. Make sure to sand and clean the stain before applying topcoat/sealer.
Hi- I recently purchased an old “shabby chic” oak table from a local woman who redoes furniture and paints them a grey-washed color. She said she put on a few coats of polyurethane (not sure which kind) but after a month of standard use and wiping with a damp cloth, it’s clear the top coat failed because paint started coming off. She came back to refinish and put on a new topcoat (the 3x extra thick one you have listed), but I feel like that’s failing too After a few weeks. We have 3 kids and need it to last. Do you think this is An issue of the kind of paint she used or lack of proper sanding with top coat? I want to now add more myself…can you recommend d which one would be best in your opinion?
Thanks!!
Hi Nina.
It’s hard to tell definitely what’s the reason. It may be a bad polyurethane sample (I used 3x extra think and there wasn’t such a problem), not following instructions and improper sanding too (in my opinion sanding is a must even if a manufacturer says that it may be omitted). I suggest you try General Finishes Topcoat, please follow the instructions. I think it will work for you.
Hi
We have a solid French oak table which I am looking to sand down to achieve a lighter colour.
I have already sanded a section underneath the table, and it’s come up really well but I’m worried that as soon as we apply a varnish or oil it will just go darker again. Any thoughts on maintaining the pale colour? We also wanted a natural looking finish but given we have children I’m assuming we’ll need more of a varnish as it’ll need to be hard wearing.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!!
Thx
Caroline
Hi Caroline.
Yes, oils and varnishes tend to darken the wood, I don’t really think you can do something about it. The only thing that comes to my mind is to use polyurethanes or lacquer instead, they keep the natural color of the wood much better than oil or varnishes.
Help!
I ordered a kitchen table that is not high-end, but I need it to last awhile. When it arrives, I plan to put a clear coat on it before we use it. I’ll pay more for the finish if it is worth it.
Hello Melissa.
If I got this right, durability is your main concern. Go for General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, it’s the most durable option on the list.
I bought an espresso colored table from a retailer. Everytime we put sonethingwarm or hot onbtgecrable, even if its on a potholder, the table turns white. Why, and would one of these products work? Which one?
Hi Colleen.
The color change appears due to chemical reactions. Unfortunately, I can’t say definitely if some of the finishes listed will solve the problem since every furniture made using different technologies, finishes, wood, etc.
William
I am having the Amish build a Walnut trestle table and chairs for my new beach house.
House will see lots of traffic as well as our family for it will be a rental.
The builder uses linseed oil and I’m concerned about him using it.
What you recommend?
Hi Edd.
Speaking about traffic, oil won’t protect the table from physical damage such as scratches, etc. You may use polyurethane as a topcoat.
HI,
This is a great article and I really appreciate your expertise. I have an old oak table that I have put a weathered wood stain/white wash on it. I used the Miniwax White Wash with a mix of water. My goal is to have a table that can withstand teenagers, pets and absent minded husbands. I chalk painted this table once already and finished using water based minwax polycrylic protective finish and, after a year, it really didn’t hold up well. Given that the stain is so light, I am a bit afraid to use the oil base finishes that you recommend here because the the yelllowing factor. Given the stain I used, do you still recommend the General Finishes product?
Hi Diana.
It’s hard to say. All finishes listed may yellow, so I suggest you stick to General Finishes. There are other water-based topcoats but they can’t withstand traffic as good as oil-based ones.
Hi – I’m refinishing a Drexel declaration walnut dining table that was pretty badly beaten when I got it. I’ve sanded down the top, removed dust with mineral spirits and am considering doing just a clear coat to finish it. I’m not sure which direction to go (or if I should do something else before coating it). It’s for a mildly high traffic dining table (no kids, sit down dinners a few times a week, occasional sewing table), but I still want it to be pretty resilient. Any recommendation are greatly appreciated!
Hi, Amanda.
You can apply topcoat right away since you’ve already sanded and cleaned the wood. Go for General Finishes Urethane Topcoat, it’s easy to use and very durable.
Hi! How about Butcher block Watco?
thank you for your great article!
Hi, Lisa.
Butcher block Watco is an oil finish which is better to use on cutting surfaces. Oils penetrate into the wood, they repel water and make the wood color look deeper increasing the beauty. But oils can’t protect your wood from scratches and traffic. Polyurethanes can do that since they create a protecting layer on the surface of the wood. For high traffic surfaces such as a dining table I would recommend using polyurethane.
Hello,
I’m looking to refinish my wooden dining table. I’m really tired of the cloudy white patches that appear when hot and cold items are placed on it. I would like to know if there is a clear coat out there that will not get cloudy when hot and cold items are placed on.
Hi, Charmain.
What finish have you got on your table currently? Haven’t met such a problem with polyurethanes (most products on the list are polyurethanes).
We just did Dutch pour painting on our heavily used kitchen table. Now what do we put over the art work? It needs to be hard as rock for our kids and not yellow with time. Something to level the surface and fill in highs and lows, then a hard sealer. What do you suggest?
Hi there.
We have a problem here. Most of the finishes on the list are oil-based which means they are extra durable but tend to yellow slightly over time. Yellowing may not happen actually, but it’s hard to predict that. But even if you pick a water-based finish that doesn’t yellow it isn’t so durable as oil-based ones. If you want durable finish just pick General Finishes or Minwax. To get rid of highs and lows thoroughly sand the surface of the table with sandpaper or sander.
Hi William,
I am a novice when it comes to woodworking. I need your advice.
I have an oldish oak table (10 bucks at a garage sale!), and I want to use it in my kitchen. Kind of “farm house” style. I have sanded, primered and painted. The table is divided into 15 separate squares and each square is painted differently.
Now, I need to seal it before putting it to use. Imagine lots of heavy use!
Since I have no experience, I’m hoping you can recommend the best sealer for me. I want a high shine/gloss and excellent durability. I’m ok with some color changing over time.
Some background about this table and why it’s so important for me to finish it correctly. My Mom was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s 2 years ago. Before her diagnosis, she painted. Mostly watercolor. She thoroughly enjoyed it and was quite gifted with a brush.
I bought the table with the hope of helping her paint again. Small squares would allow for her keep focus.
Sadly, her disease has progressed so rapidly that she can no longer paint (even with my help)and was only able to finish one square. I cherish that square! I have since painted the remaining squares. Only the sides of the table and the legs remain.
Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.
Thank you for your time,
Kathy
Hi, Kathy.
Sorry for my late reply. I feel sorry for your mom.
What about sealer, Waterlox is just great for your table but it’s expensive (but it’s worth it). There is Rust-Oleum Shellac which is also suitable for you and much cheaper. Hope this helps.