Top Pick – The Best Oil for Wood
No doubt, Sunnyside is the leading oil product for wood on the market. I and other customers can say that this is a high-quality product. It’s a perfect choice for your dry wooden pieces.
Introduction
That beautiful rocking chair your grandfather made. Your classic hardwood floors. Wood is a lovely material with such grace and history. To keep it looking its best, you need to condition the wood, and you may need to refinish it.
You have a few different options for a finish, but one type of finish suitable for a natural look is oil. There isn’t a lot of shine, so it’s ideal for imperfect surfaces. It brings out the natural grain and prevents drying.
We’ll take a glance at the best oils for wood. Plus, I’ve answered a few questions you may have about how to choose the right one. Let’s take a look.
Best Oils For Wood in December, 2023
| Oil | Coverage (quart) | Dry time (hours) | Sheen | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | SUNNYSIDE Editor's Choice | 100 - 150 sq ft | 12-18 | gloss | Check Price |
| 2 | Watco Danish | up to 170 sq ft | 6 | satin | Check Price |
| 3 | Watco Teak | 250 sq ft | 8-10 | satin | Check Price |
| 4 | Osmo - Polyx | 100 - 150 sq ft | 24-48 | satin-matt | Check Price |
| 5 | Formbys Finish | 100 - 150 sq ft | 24 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 6 | CabotStain | 125 - 150 sq ft | 24 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 7 | Minwax | up to 170 sq ft | 8 | satin | Check Price |
| 8 | Tried and True | up to 250 sq ft | 8 | satin | Check Price |
| 9 | OSMO Top | up to 250 sq ft | 8-10 | satin | Check Price |
| 10 | Watco Tung | up to 200 sq ft | 24 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
| 11 | Star Brite Oil | 100 - 150 sq ft | 24 | semi-gloss | Check Price |
Here is the list of the best oils for treating wood available today.
1. SUNNYSIDE CORPORATION Boiled Linseed Oil – Top Option for Dry Wooden Furniture
Linseed oil is a plain, classic wood oil that brings out the grain finish without changing the natural color of the wood. It’s used to strengthen the existing finish on your piece and prevent damage from over-drying and cracking. You can use it both for interior and exterior projects.
Boiled Linseed oil has a faster drying time than raw. Sunnyside goes on uniform and dries in only 12 to 18 hours for a smooth, uniform finish. It repels water and prevents chalking. It’s safe to use on most furniture finishes and antiques.
You won’t want to use this particular kind for any food preparations surfaces such as butcher blocks. The agents that speed drying isn’t safe for consumption. Make sure you read the label clearly before using it.
- Faster drying time than raw linseed oil
- Brings out wood grain without changing the color
- Strengthens existing finishes
- Repels water
- Both interior and exterior
- Isn’t food safe product
- Has a strong smell and you need protective gloves
2. Watco Danish Oil – Great Performance on Tight Grained Woods
Watco Danish Oil is actually for interior wood with a varnish additive. It has the finishing properties of a true wood oil with the protective feature of a varnish.
The Walnut color brings out a deep, warm tone to the wood. It’s easy to apply and penetrates deeply into the surface for a beautiful finish. You can safely use it on sanded, bare and stripped wood.
It’s excellent with tight grained woods and surfaces with interesting grains because it can penetrate deeply without hiding the patterns.
If you don’t want the color to get darker each time, I recommend a wax or a plain oil finish after the first round.
- Beautiful, warm tone with the look of a hand rubbed finish
- Won’t hide the natural grain
- Easy to apply and safe for both bare and stripped and sanded wood
- Varnish gives much more protection
- Not a one and done operation. It will require some periodic upkeep
- Reapplying the varnish year to year darkens the wood color
- Only interior
3. Watco Teak Oil Finish – Good Choice for Dense Woods Such as Teak
Watco’s Teak Oil Finish is suitable for more difficult woods such as teak, rosewood or mahogany. It penetrates deeply, protecting the surface from within without leaving a film or cracking later.
It dries in just eight hours, making it great for quick projects. It’s water and UV resistant. It’s also suitable for marine use above the water line. It’s appropriate both for exterior and interior use.
There is a bit of varnish in this oil to help further protect your hardwood from the elements. It may cause the color of your wood to darken over time if you reuse it to the condition. However, the initial color is warm and has the appearance of a hand-rubbed finish.
- Penetrates hardwood deeply to protect from within
- Dries quickly (only about eight hours)
- Water and UV resistant
- Suitable for above the water line marine use
- Exterior and interior
- Not food safe
- May cause combustion if rags aren’t cleaned properly
- Not suitable or softer woods such as pine
4. Osmo – Polyx – Great Oil for Wooden Floors
Osmo’s Polyx is a combination of different oils and waxes. It uses sunflower, thistle, and soybean oil as well as both Carnauba and Candelilla wax.
This product applies a simple mineral spirit as a solvent. It has a lower odor than other, similar products. You can easily apply it, the coat will last a few years with proper care.
Although it’s great for larger spaces like flooring and windows, it’s somewhat expensive. If you’re looking for a budget option, this isn’t going to be the right one for you. However, if you want something that will last a few years, this is a good option.
Make sure to check Matt Estlea’s excellent tutorial on how to apply the oil to the wood surface:
- Great for wooden floors
- Uses both oil and wax to create a satin finish
- Low VOC and emissions compared to other similar products
- The finish lasts a few years
- Somewhat expensive
- Routine maintenance is required to prevent scratches
- Indoor use only
5. Formbys Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish – Top Finish Option for Wood
Tung Oil is another classic oil that protects the finish of the wood without hiding the natural grain. It resists both water and mildew and helps prevent chalking. It dries clear, so it’s safe to use as a complement. You should use it only for interior projects.
Formby’s low gloss option gives the wood a hand-rubbed finish without highlighting imperfections. You can continue to condition your piece, working with the natural strength of the wood and finish.
The glossier the surface, the more you highlight any scratches or dings. It comes in various sizes so that you can choose the right one that fits your need.
- Low gloss option is better for surfaces with multiple imperfections
- Complements an existing finish
- Water and mildew resistant
- Dries clear
- Not recommended for floors
- Only for interior use
6. CabotStain Australian Timber Oil – Great Option For Outdoor Wood Furniture and Hardwood
CabotStain’s option is a matte finish oil that penetrates deeply into the wood to protect it from within. You can control the sheen by adding a few more coats, but it never finishes as a high gloss.
It’s a combination of Tung and Linseed oil. It’s going to take it a while to dry, but once it does, it’s UV and water resistant. You’ll need about two full days to get it completely dry with no tack so make sure you understand what you’re getting into.
This one is strong enough to get through the grain. It’s solvent based so make sure you have plenty of ventilation.
- Good for hardwood grains
- Matte finish with a single coat and increasing sheen with multiple coats
- Moderately UV and water resistant
- Solvent based, so you need ventilation
- Takes a long time to dry
7. Minwax Tung Oil Finish – Good Interior Oil for Reconditioning
Minwax Tung Oil is perfect for pieces that are already finished and need reconditioning. It penetrates the wood deeply to prevent chalking and cracking. It’s water and mildew resistant and helps neutralize any acidity or alkalinity.
Tung oil is easier to refinish than varnish, so it’s suitable for pieces you may want to rejuvenate after some time or that you might want to change later.
It’s not pure Tung oil, but you should have a better result with the added solvent and varnish without having to refinish a piece completely. It dries more quickly than pure, classic tung oil so you can get layers without as much wait time.
- Penetrates wood deeply to condition
- Water and mildew resistant
- Easier to refinish later than pure varnish
- More durable than pure Tung Oil
- Not safe for food prep areas
- Not 100% Tung Oil
- Solvent requires ventilation
- Not suitable for exterior use
8. Tried and True – Ideal Product for Interior Use
Danish oil is pure linseed oil that’s been moderately polymerized. It’s economical and produces a nice finish to your wood. It has better penetration than boiled one, but it may take longer to finish.
There’s no varnish and no other additives. It conditions the surface, bringing out the natural grain and complementing the finish.
You may have to reapply it periodically to prevent drying. It doesn’t have a color, and there’s no gloss. The sheen is suitable for wood with some imperfections. This option conditions and enhances the grain.
It does have a faint cooking oil smell that some might find off-putting, but it fades after a while. This option doesn’t protect wood well, beyond just making sure there’s no cracking associated with drying out, but for indoor furniture and wood pieces, it’s beautiful.
- Suitable for indoor pieces
- No harsh, toxic smell and no VOC
- Ideal for food preparation areas
- Suitable for surfaces with some imperfection
- Smells like cooking oil
- Won’t protect against damage
9. OSMO TopOil – Food Grade Oil for Wood
Osmo’s Top is an oil and wax mixture best suited for things like furniture and food prep surfaces. It conditions the wood, bringing back the shine. It’s water repellant. You can protect your food prep areas against staining agents like wine or things with a strong smell.
It’s clear and dries with a satin finish. It resists scratching and helps you clean dirt and grime off easier. You can keep conditioning your wood piece without having to remove the top oil coat and without sanding things down.
It’s easy to use, and it doesn’t add any color to your piece aside from deepening the color slightly due to conditioning.
- Food grade conditioning oil can be used in all your food prep areas
- Water repellant
- Resists dirt and grime, making it easier to clean
- Low odor
- Satin finish suitable for imperfect woods
- Only comes in a half liter size
10. Watco Tung- Nice One to Enhance Natural Wood Tone
Our final product is Watco’s Tung oil. It’s not a true Tung oil, but it will dry a lot faster than traditional Tung oil thanks to a blend and drying ingredients. It takes about 24 hours, but after that, you’ll have a beautiful color with a beautiful deep grain.
This option penetrates the grain of even hardwoods to condition and protect. It won’t darken with age, and it’s easy to apply. It doesn’t leave any tack the way pure Tung oil will. Watco does have a solvent, so make sure you use it in a well-ventilated area.
- Should satisfy most budget requirements
- Dries quickly
- Isn’t as tacky as pure tung oil
- Won’t darken with age
- Not pure Tung oil
- Solvent based and will need ventilation
11. Star Brite Premium Golden Teak Oil – Easy to Use
This oil can be used for any wood, not only teak.
Quick, Easy, And Effective
You couldn’t ask for an easier-to-use product than this. You just put some oil on a cloth and rub it into the surface of the wood. You could use a brush, but it’s better to give it a good rubbing. By doing this, you push more of the oil into the pores of the wood.
Oil treatment is also a one-step solution to many problems. It functions as a sealer and a top-coat, eliminating the need for either of these jobs. I also like the way that it imparts an amber-gold color to the surface of your wood. As you might guess, this kind of oil was originally intended for teak wood, but it can be used on any wooden surface.
The Problems
In spite of their effectiveness, oil finishes are a little bit less long-lived than polyurethanes for example. As the oil wears away, you will need to re-apply. Thankfully, this kind of thing doesn’t need to be done very often. Still, it’s an extra chore that you might not want to do.
This product is also both toxic and combustible. As such, you want to be a little more careful when applying it to the surface of your wood. Wear some kind of breathing protection, and take care to keep it away from sparks or open flame.
- Very easy to use
- Time-honored solution
- Seals and finishes in one step
- Imparts a warm, golden color
- No need for curing
- Must be repeated more often
- Both toxic and flammable
Buyer’s Guide
There are all kinds of finishes for wood, but how do you know which is the right one? Let’s go through a few things to consider before you choose.
What Are My Choices?
Different finishes are appropriate for different situations.
Wax
Wax isn’t a finish by itself. Instead, it helps further condition wood and prevents the loss of color through drying and aging. It’s better to use in addition to another finish.
Linseed Oil
Most linseed oil used for wood finishing is boiled. Raw linseed oil just takes way too long to dry to be effective. Boiled linseed one goes on smoothly and dries to protect the wood. If you want true boiled linseed oil, look for “heat treated” or “polymerized.” All other types are actually chemical additives in raw linseed oil. They speed up drying time, but they can add a lot of toxic fumes to your workplace.
Tung Oil
Tung Oil is very similar to linseed oil. It takes a very long time to dry, so most wood finishes are either heat treated or have chemical additives to speed up drying time. It’s more moisture resistant than linseed oil. It’s penetrating, so it’s suitable for hardwoods that need more power to deal with their tight grain.
Varnish
Varnish has a bit of color to it. It’s a synthetic resin that penetrates wood and helps seal it. It cures by the same process (polymerization: the act of drying into a solid state), but it’s more durable than oil. If your main purpose is to seal wood surface to protect it from moisture then sealer would be a more appropriate option for you.
Oil and Varnish Blends
These have the best of both worlds. The oil helps the application and conditions the wood while the varnish enhances the color and increases durability. They’re far more water and weather resistant. Plus, some of the finishes are UV resistant.
Other Finishes
Other types of high shine finishes include things like shellac and lacquers. These create a layer of material on the surface that’s very reflective. For perfect woods, these can also enhance the grain. They aren’t suitable for woods with surface imperfections because the gloss makes imperfections a lot more obvious. They’re known as surface finishes because they dry on top of the wood instead of inside it, creating their signature shine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Furniture oil is not the same thing as a sealer. However, it does greatly improve the ability of wood to resist moisture. Because all types of oil will naturally repel water, it will act as a sealer to some extent. In the days before wood sealers and clear coats were invented, oil impregnation served as a useful technique for preserving the life of a wooden object.
At the same time, you cannot expect a furniture oil to function as well as a sealer. Both of these products will penetrate the surface of the wood and provide a waterproof top layer. However, most commercial wood sealers are plastic-based and made of synthetic polymers. This is both a good thing and a bad thing, depending on your perspective. On the good end, plastic will last a lot longer than oil, which has to be re-applied once or twice a year. On the bad side, plastic is not environmentally friendly at all. Furniture oils tend to be made from natural substances, but this also increases their price somewhat.
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Pure oils can be a bigger investment than oil blends. Some of the products on our list are well within most budgets and can be used again and again.
More expensive options include oil and wax blends with ultra-conditioning properties. You can justify the expense because you won’t need to apply them very often.
If you have large areas, you may be able to save by buying in bulk. Otherwise, you can use a more expensive product on woods such as antiques or delicate finished woods.
I would never discourage you from trying to save money, but sometimes you get what you pay for. If your product protects your wood and prevents damage from drying and aging, it’s worth it to spend just a little bit more. You save yourself from spending a lot more on significant repairs.
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You’ve decided that oil is a good finish, and lucky for you, it’s one of the easiest to apply.
The first thing you should do is identify the type of wood you’re working with. Really porous woods may not do well with oil because the wood soaks it all up leaving very little on the surface. Getting an even coat is difficult.
Once you’ve identified your wood, sand the surface gently to remove any dirt or grime before you apply the oil. Work from coarse sandpaper to fine to ensure you won’t have any deep scratches left on the surface of the wood.
Apply the oil gently with a high-quality rag. Lower quality rags can pill and leave those annoying little pieces of fuzz everywhere. Wipe up the excess and make sure to clean your clothes carefully.
Allow the proper amount of time to dry before adding a second coat. The drying time will depend on the product you’re using. Be sure to read the instructions thoroughly.
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Any oil with a solvent has the potential to be a fire hazard. Most experts recommend submerging the rag into a bucket of water with an airtight lid, but very few people actually do that. You should make sure the cloth is flat and can dry completely.
If you bunch the rag up after using it, escaping fumes turn up the heat and are in danger of combusting. You may find yourself walking into a fire hazard.
Oils should never puddle on your wood surface. Make sure you’ve correctly wiped the excess away before allowing it to dry.
Options that contain solvents will need more than just water to remove. You’ll need a paint thinner or other removal agent.
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In many cases, furniture oil provides a great way to finish the surface of a wooden item. It offers a beautiful sheen, resistance against the elements, and a convenience factor that is second to none. Like any other tool, furniture oil isn’t suited for all situations. There are times when it’s worth using and times when it isn’t.
You should consider the current state of the wood. If it’s already painted or coated, you will not be able to use a furniture oil. This is because furniture oils must be able to penetrate into the wood, which they cannot do if some other finish is in the way.
On the other hand, unfinished wood is usually a bad idea. Unless you are talking about a cheap and temporary construction, any wooden furniture should have its surface treated in some way. You have several options for finishing but oil is probably one of the easiest. You simply rub it into the surface and let it do its work. Wherever you see a dry patch of wood, that’s where you need to apply more oil.
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Oils can be harsh on the skin. If your product also has a solvent added to help with the application, you may need to wear gloves and eyewear. The biggest safety concern is ventilation. Fumes from the oil or varnish blend can cause severe respiratory issues and danger to your eyes and brain. If you can’t ventilate the area, you should consider an alternative to the product you’ve chosen.
Never leave oils around where children or pets can find them. Also, if you’re conditioning something in your food prep areas, make sure your oil is specifically labeled as food safe. Otherwise, you risk ingesting toxins.
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At first glance, the subject of furniture oils can be kind of confusing. With so many types of oil out there, it is indeed difficult to understand everything. Let’s take a look at three of the most common types of furniture oil so that you can understand their qualities.
Tung oil is obtained from the seeds of the Tung tree and was first invented in China (where this tree grows). After pressing it from the seeds, ancient herbalists found that this oil would gradually harden on contact with the air. This forms a thick but transparent layer that serves to protect a surface from moisture. Before long, they started using this new substance for umbrellas, ships, and quite a few other things.
When it comes to Danish oil, the subject gets a little more confusing. There isn’t just one formulation for this stuff, so it can be made in more than one way. Sometimes, it is made from tung oil, linseed oil, or other such substances. In its cheaper form, it is basically an artificial substitute for tung oil. You never really know what you’re getting here.
Linseed oil, like the other two, is an oil extracted from plant seeds (the flax plant, in this case). Like the other two, it also hardens gradually when in contact with air. As you can see, there are a number of plants that yield oils of this type. These self-hardening oils are called “drying oils,” and they are the original form of clear-coat. These products are still commonly used in the making of various musical instruments but have been phased out of many other applications. This is because the oil is sticky and somewhat hard to use.
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There are a wide variety of furniture oils on the market. These might include tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil, teak oil, or Roalman oil. All of these products offer distinct advantages and disadvantages. Still, you should get similar results from all these products as long as you follow the instructions.
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Yes, most oils will darken the wood once applied. While it will not change the color of the wood, it will make it a shade darker. This has the effect of bringing out the grain and making it far more visible. However, the overall darkening effect of an oil-based finish will keep it from gaining too much contrast.
Not only does oil darken most wood, but this darkening process also gives you an easy way to know when your wooden furniture needs more oil. When you see a pale spot of wood, you know that it’s thirsty, and oil is its favorite drink.
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Final Thoughts
Wood oils can prolong the life of your wood piece and help prevent repairs. Choosing the right option brings out the wonderful grain quality in the surface and helps keep the structure of the wood intact. A project may dry over time or change shades, but a good quality oil can breathe new life into it.
Hello – we have replaced our indoor stair railing with white oak – it has been left raw for 7 years and luckily, has not cracked in our dry Alberta climate, but I want to protect it. The hand rail gets quite dirty over time of course, so it needs to be washable but my biggest concern is that I don’t want to use anything that will change the colour or give it a yellow tone. The white oak was very expensive so I want to be sure if this. You’d mentioned dead flat varnish which sounds like what I’m after… would you recommend it for this application?
Hi Karen,
I’d choose water-based matte polyurethane if color maintenance is the most important thing next to sealing the surface. While milky in the can, it dries clear and doesn’t alter the color of the underlying wood. It dries quickly, with the smell dissipating rapidly. It will seal the wood to prevent cracking and staining and is washable.
The following link is one I like: https://geni.us/RWfi, but there are plenty of makes on the market to choose from.
Hi. I live in Fl. and have a very old pine front door that needs oiling!! The door is from 1926. I’ve read your product reviews but they don’t seem to mention exterior doors. My guess would be a combination of linseed and tongue or teak??? Please help. Thanks!
Hi Mary,
I wouldn’t use linseed oil as it goes dark in the presence of moisture and can go moldy. I’d choose Tung Oil. Once you’ve prepared the door, apply the first two coats of Tung Oil thinned 50/50 with white spirits. Then add a further two coats unthinned. Allow each coat up to a day to penetrate. Remember that you’ll need to refresh annually with another coat or two.
Hello William! I have a desk, the top is made of mahogany (African padouk). The table top was coated with American wood oil Invisible (varnish, wax, oil). After a while, where your hands touch the table (imagine that you are typing on a keyboard), this varnish became slimy and began to wear down to the wood. Sweat begins to dissolve the varnish. Perhaps you have some mega-cool product with strong wear protection? But at the same time preserving the natural color of beautiful wood? Thanks!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wx92AzHZsNjGKQobr2ncVkQd0FoAxmiw/view?usp=sharing
Hello Peter,
I love the grain and depth of color on that tabletop. I’ve looked at the American Wood Oil site to try and understand its constituents, but it’s a bit obscure. Most of their products mix hard and soft drying oils, varnish, and wax, so I’m not surprised it doesn’t wear well.
I’d be tempted to go for a product called Osmo Polyx-Oil. It’s designed for worktops, is sweatproof, resistant to water, and very hard-wearing. Here’s a link to the product: https://geni.us/qrMR1, and here’s one to their website to understand their products: https://osmouk.com/
Not the cheapest oil in the world, but top-of-the-range protection as befits such a beautiful tabletop.
Hi, I just purchased a raw walnut live edge slab to make a small rustic coffee table. What would be the best treatment after I get it sanded smooth?
Hi, Carol.
My preference for walnut is Tung Oil, as it gives a natural finish, although it’ll need reapplying every year or two. It won’t give as much protection as an oil-based polyurethane, however, you’re essentially wrapping the wood in plastic with polyurethane, which doesn’t look as good, in my opinion.
If the table will take some knocks and abuse, the polyurethane is harder-wearing. If you want a class finish and don’t mind reapplying it now and again, I’d go Tung Oil every time.
Tung Oil – https://geni.us/J7j9QUx
Oil-based Poly – https://geni.us/JKoDbR1
Hi I have Indian Rail Way Wood coffee table s it’s faded in our conservatory what can I use to restore its original shade
Hi, Mohamed.
Without knowing the original surface protection and the coffee table design, it’s difficult to say. However, as a generic answer, I’d be tempted to sand the coffee table lightly with 220-grit sandpaper and apply a hardening oil such as Tung Oil. You could try a small spot in an inconspicuous area to see the result before going all-in on the rest of the table. Be aware that you’ll need to apply more oil every year or two to retain the color and nourish the wood; otherwise, it’ll dry out and fade again.
Hi Nicola, I am trying to finish and protect clean and sanitized driftwood so I can make art pieces for gifts. I don’t want the color to change as Ive worked hard to get these pieces into clean and perfect driftwood pieces. I have used washing and putting them in the oven for 2 4 hours a couple of times to be sure nothing is living in them. What would you suggest I use for these nature pieces, they are beautiful.
Hi Kell, most finishes you apply will darken or change the color slightly. However, there is a product called Dead Flat Varnish which you can apply to your driftwood pieces.
It will look glossy when wet, but it will dry back to the original color. You can even apply satin polyurethane over dead flat varnish if you wish and the color stays the same because the varnish seals the wood.
Here’s the link https://geni.us/rMBAlLs. Good luck, I hope that helps.
Hi William, we are considering buying a table constructed of solid pieces of oak joined together to form the top, beautuful. However previous purchasers complain it stains very easily. Could you recommend the best treatment/product to avoid this problem without giving it a high shiny finish. Many thanks. Nicola
Hi Nicola. My preference for oak is Tung Oil. It’s great on lighter woods like oak, although on really dark hardwoods it can seem a bit milky. For your purposes, however, it will be fine. It’s naturally water-resistant, and it dries to a nice satin finish. You will need to reapply annually. Here’s an Amazon link: https://geni.us/74m8.
William, I have several small antique pieces of carved Chinese rosewood treasures that are very dry because our lack of humidity here in Alberta, especially in the winter. Most important are items such as carved beads and other small figures. It has been suggested that I try linseed oil, but I would appreciate your expert advice.
Hi Sheran, Rosewood is often used on musical instruments, and the two oils used to maintain condition, in order of preference, are Lemon Oil: https://geni.us/zduob or Linseed Oil: https://geni.us/RleyCpF. If your preference is linseed oil, you’ll be fine using that.
Hello, I have a 100 year old rocker. I am not sure what it is made out of, I am assuming oak. It has a mat dark finish on it (not paint, maybe a stain), but on the handles, seat and parts of the back the dark finish has worn off showing a lighter wood with a nice grain. The rocker belonged to my grandparents and has been past to me. I have memory rocking in the rocker as far back as I can remember. It was a wedding present to my grandparents. I am now 62. One day I would like to remove the dark finish (not sure how), but in the mean time I want to keep the wood from drying out. Can you tell me which product you would recommend? I was thinking Tried and True Danish Oil Finish from your product descriptions. Please let me know what you think?
Hi Nancy.
Yes, you can apply Danish Oil as a temporary measure until you get around to stripping/sanding the rocker.
In normal cases, the oil can also remove some of the stain, although given the age of your rocker I’m not sure that’s so much of a risk. Give 2 or 3 coats of oil to the affected areas, allowing about 8-hours between each coat.
Once dry, buff the areas well with a clean dry cotton cloth to ensure there is no residual oil that can transfer onto clothes. Here’s an Amazon link if you need one: https://geni.us/g1Ra
Thank you for all your information. I am a renter and have an oak railing that I tried to clean, but now it looks warped, with white marks and quite dull. Also there is some scratches on the bottom where the kids hang there jackets. What would you recommend I do to make this freshened up and newer looking? Thank you in advance for your time!
Hi Jennifer.
My answer is assuming that the rail is natural timber, which is waxed. White marks on oak are usually from water or heat.
I’d first use washing-up liquid and warm water to wash the rail thoroughly. Don’t soak it, just clean it with a lint-free cloth lightly dampened, then let it dry.
The next bit depends on how brave you feel. You can use #0000 steel wool to polish out the scratches, and depending on the depth of the water staining, it should remove the white marks also.
Finally, apply a wax product to reseal the wood.
MR STEWART I BUILT A ALTER FOR MY CHURCH AND HAD TO MAKE IT OUT OF 100 YEAR OLD PEWS AND IT CAME OUT AWESOME .ITS A OCTAGON SHAPE WITH SIX OCTAGON LEGS . IT IS BEAUTIFUL . MY PROBLEM IS SOME OF THE PEICES ARE CRACKING .I NEED TO PUT SOME LIFE BACK IN THE WOOD BY THE WAY IT IS MADE OF OAK . I AM THINKING OF USEING SUNNYSIDE BOILDED LINSEED OIL WHAT DO U THINK ?
Mr. Beninati, my hat is off to you. What an achievement! I’d love to see a photo.
I’ve used boiled linseed oil (BLO) on oak several times, and it always works well for me. This is the one I use.
Remember that oak has large pores to soak up the oil, but always apply many light coats rather than a couple of heavy ones. Be warned that oak can go quite dark over time with repeated applications of linseed oil. If you don’t wish the dark color, Danish Oil like this one is another excellent choice.
Hi, I’d really appreciate some advice on the best product to use for larch battens I’m using on the walls in my courtyard. I’d ideally like something which has fire resisting properties. At the moment, I’m thinking I’ll need to treat it with something like Zero flame and then add a UV protection like treatex. But is there something which both resists fire AND protects against greying? Thank you, Hannah
Hello Hannah, I would go with zero flame and treatex as you mentioned.
While you can buy other products that you can mix with paint to make it fire retardant, it is a bit of a hassle to maintain the ratio and consistency of paint after mixing 2 products.
Many thanks William – really appreciate the help, Hannah
My pleasure Hannah, pleased to see you found the information helpfull.
Hi! Great website. I’m about to start on a project making a desk for my office. I’m using solid cherry timber and basing it on a mid-century Danish design. How would you recommend I treat the wood once I’ve built it? Many thanks. Hugh
Hello Hugh.
You can apply linseed oil; it provides a warm, aged, and reddish appearance on cherry. I recommend top coating with a clear finish for further protection; wipe-on/off application. You can apply this recommended boiled linseed oil by Sunnyside.
Hi William thank you for your website. Could you advise me on what’s the best protective oil to use on tables (in my case console made from Sonoma Oak Wood). Many Thanks.
Mary B
Hello Mary,
I would suggest using linseed oil. Like other hand-rubbed oil finishes, Linseed oil penetrates deep into the wood grain to protect it from scratches and humidity fluctuations.
The purest type of linseed oil, raw linseed oil, is sometimes impracticable as a furniture finish due to the lengthy drying times—each application of raw linseed oil might take weeks to cure.
Commonly used as a wood finish, boiled linseed oil can be used in your case but do remember that some brands use hazardous drying compounds to make it dry faster.
You can use this recommended product.
Many thanks William for your suggestion.
All the best
Mary B
My pleasure Mary, don’t hesitate to send me further questions or comments – will be happy to help
I have a house that has partially burned. It is 104 years old and was built with freshly cut Ash wood. Houses built with this wood tend to burn very quickly due to the Ash being so dry. I intend to tear the rest of the house down and rebuild, but Lumber prices are ridiculous right now. I have thought about using the Ash the current house is constructed with. Most of the wall joists are more 3×5’s rather than 2×4’s because they were rough cut. If I planed them down to 2×4’s what could I coat the wood with to make it more fire retardant before using them for new studs?
Hello David, you can use this product by Master Flame.
It helps prevent the spread of dangerous flames by mixing 50/50 with Low Gloss Latex Paint for best performance.
I have old cabinet and lots of it at the cottage the inside is very dry and getting old and grey what kind of oil should I used that I don’t have to do it every year because it’s a lot of work to take everything out I have about 18 cabinets and 6 drawers and is it safe to put food in it
Hello Lina, I would recommend using this product by Osmo on your cabinets, it is food safe and if you want something that will last a few years, this is a good option.
Hello,
I have a vaulted wood ceiling in my living room that also has a gas heater. Some parts are looking a little silvery. I’ve been in this house for four years and have not done anything for it. What would be the best to do to protect my ceiling.
Hello Frank,
The first thing I would suggest is to thoroughly clean the ceiling.
Mix a mild detergent with some warm water, saturate the sponge make sure that the sponge is not too heavily saturated. Make sure the ceiling is dry before starting the next step.
Apply 2 to 3 coats of polyurethane wood finish, this will protect your wood, it is durable easy to apply and dries quickly, and will no turn yellow over time.
This product by Minwax will work best for your application.
I have just had some new very expensive ash internal doors made. I’m trying to find out what would be the best course of treatment for them to protect and bring out the grain. Some of the doors will be used in bathrooms so I need something that is water resistant. Can you help please.
Jill
Hello Jill, the best way to bring out the grains on ash wood is to stain them.
The type of stain you want depends on your taste. you can use something like this by Minwax.
You can leave it at that, but if you want an extra layer of protection you can top it off with something like this product, also by Minwax.
Let the stain dry and apply 2 coats of clear finish for the best results.
We have an unfinished oak coffee table that I was considering using linseed oil on to protect the wood. The Sunnyside website had some product information about diluting the linseed oil with mineral spirits for deeper penetration. Do you recommend this? Also, how many coats of linseed oil should I apply?
Hello Bob,
Mixing linseed oil with mineral oil will thin it down making it a little easier to work with and allows it to penetrate the core of the wood more easily as it will make the oil less viscous.
Some manufacturers mix linseed oil with chemicals that might affect its food safety. You want to ensure you are getting the right type I recommend is this one by Sunnyside.
What finish should I use for Hickory furniture? The furniture was originally a brown/reddish colour, but all items have been sanded down and are now different shades of very pale to mid brown. However, when I wipe the pieces with a wed cloth, the colour changes to shades of very pale to white and a deep red. I want to keep the furniture to the shades of pale to mid brown if possible.
Hello Henrica, if you are adamant about pale to the mid-brown color you can coat the layer of furniture with this varnish by Modern Masters.
However, this will not protect your furniture, for optimal protection you can use clear varnish like this one by Minwax.
Using both will provide protection as well as the look you want. Clear varnish can be used independently but there is a high chance it will change the color of your wood from mild-brown to slightly reddish color.
Is there any kind of a spray oil for treating a wood carving that has been neglected (sitting out side for some time) and has many, many small deep area’s.
A brush would work but I don’t want the oil to pool in the crevices.
Or an idea on the next best way to treat the wood and not have a lot left over. (I’m also on a budget).
Thanks for your help!
Hello Michael.
I would recommend using turpentine oil and linseed oil like this one by Sunnyside.
If you are on a budget use the above product on a spray bottle that is nonreactive to chemicals like this one by HARRIS, which is great.
If you really don’t want to deal with all the pouring then you can buy an oil spray like this one by Howard.
Just make sure to clean your carving of all the algae and detritus if any before applying the coat. Feel free to ask questions if you have any confusion.
Can you use the Sunnyside oil for natural wood floors (mine don’t have poly coat)?
Hi Dan, you can apply Sunnyside oil to your floor will protect the wood from water and pollution. For low traffic floors, it would do a good job.
Keep in mind there are a few flaws:
Flaxseed oil is not the best for floors because of no high wear resistance and hard coating. If the floor is exposed to heavy traffic, you may need to renew the coating frequently.
Until it dries, it has a slightly unpleasant odor and also dries relatively slowly, it is good to ventilate the room well.
Another option is to apply oil suitable for wooden floors such as this one by OSMO. It has greater hardness and durability.
I am worried that linseed oil will always have a bad smell to it, have you had this experience?
Hi Tucker.
You probably used raw linseed oil, it really has an unpleasant odor and dries slowly. Once it dries and the room is ventilated, the smell will gradually disappear.
Under normal conditions, drying takes 2-4 days but there are other factors that affect the drying time:
– how thick the applied layer is
– room temperature and ventilation
– what is the basis for applying raw wood or coated wood
– Is the oil diluted?
Provide good conditions for drying, ventilate well and throw away the application rags so that they are not in the room (be careful the rags are flammable) and soon you will not have an unpleasant odor.
I have a Restoration Hardware dinning room table made out of distressed pine. What kind of oil should I use? Thanks Kathy
Hi Kathy.
This oil will do a great job it has very good resistance and as we know the dining table is subjected to a large load.
For an excellent result, you must remove the old coating to wood, sand to smoothness (P220) and apply the Oil at least two coats. If you want a different color you can apply oil with color and then protect with the oil mentioned above.
If you do not intend to remove the old coating, this oil can be applied to natural oils or wax. So if the old coating is different the oil of the eighth is not a suitable option.
You can refresh an old oil-based coating with boiled linseed oil, it also provides good protection but needs to be renewed more often.
I have a barn wood cabinet I use in my kitchen for storage, it doesn’t appear to have any kind of treatment on it. What would be the best to use?
Hi Barbara, you can use oil number one on the list.
Boiled linseed oil adheres well to old coatings, renews them, and gives good protection to the furniture.
Hi William,
We’ve recently purchased a French provincial style reclaimed pine dining table.
I love the distressed look of the wood with the differing grains and knots but it is unprotected and I’d really like to protect it with something but I’m unsure of what oil to use. I’d like to enhance all of the above and prefer not to change the colour of the wood if at all possible. There are a couple of cracks on the base and I’d like to try to prevent any more occurring if I can!
What would you recommend using please?
Thank you!
Hi Rebecca.
I also like the natural look of the furniture, I congratulate you for wanting to keep your table in its natural look.
You can use oil no.1 in the list by Sunnyside, it does not change the color of the wood, adheres well to the existing coating, and prevents new cracks (it can even cover some small cracks). It also gives good protection.
It is good to apply periodically or at the first signs of wear.
Fantastic resource – glad I found your blog!
I am a bit undecided on how to treat my wenge bathroom cabinet – it has cracked along the veins and looks like it could use some love, but I am afraid to apply an oil that is going to leave it shinny
Similar to Alexa here-above, I have a black wooden credenza – very grainy and matte – which has been cleaned with some sort of detergent (maybe windex?) and it now has ‘washed out’ stripes. Is Osmo the way to go?
Thanks for any input
Hi James, I am happy to know that I have been useful to you!
Yes, Osmo is a good brand proven over time.
This oil has a matte finish so it will not make the surface shiny.
For a black wooden credenza after washing well you can apply oil with black color and then transparent top oil for better protection.
Looking to refinish yellow cedar window frames. They are outside and by the ocean (salt water). Any recommendations?
Hi Lisa, to repeat the finish it is good to know what the old finish is.
For example, if it is a varnish and you want to apply oil, it is good to remove the old varnish beforehand or to re-apply the varnish on the same base (of course if it has worked well so far).
If the windows are treated with oil, you can simply apply a little.
Teak oil like this is very suitable for your case like this one by Star Brite, which is a cleaning kit with which you can restore the wood (if necessary), works well for both teak and other tree species.
In addition its resistant to saltwater (can be used in a boat above the waterline).
It’s a good idea to renew the coating at the first sign by simply applying a new one.
Hi William,
We just purchased a used draw leaf table made in Denmark. We’re not sure if it’s teak or white oak. When you “draw” the leaves out, there’s quite a difference in the color from the center of the table. We’d like to liven up the center, but don’t want to use the wrong thing and make the wood turn yellow or too dark. Any suggestions? And any pointers to determining whether it might be teak or white oak?
To tell what type of wood it is look at the grain. Teak wood usually has a straight grain that looks like streaks or lines of darker color. If you really want to know what type of wood it is, you can buy a white oak test kit. As far as trying to bring out the color in the wood without it yellowing or darkening too much, I would suggest using tung oil, teak oil, or even danish oil. Tung oil is considered to be the finest and most natural wood finish but it leaves a wet wood look. Teak oil is suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces. It beautifies the wood and protects the wood from sunlight and water. Danish is the fastest to dry and can protect the wood against chemical damage, heat exposure, and surface scratches and stains. All of these oils are good, it just depends on what look you want and protection.
Hi William. I have a Knotty pine Barn Door that I’d like to use oil on. I’m not sure if i should just use Mineral oil or the Watco Danish Oil “one step finish”. I don’t want a glossy finish nor do i want to darken the finish. I’d love your thoughts on this… Mineral or Danish Oil?
Thank you
Donny
Both of these oils are great options. Most people use mineral oil to keep a natural look to the wood. If you use too much mineral oil you might get a slight gloss look. Danish oil might darken the wood a little unless you get a natural color Danish oil or a color close to the wood you have. I have used Danish oil many times before and haven’t really gotten a glossy look. In your case, I would go with Mineral oil but both would most likely achieve what you want.
Hi, I’ve just purchased some jarrah hardwood sleepers for a small retaining wall. I’ve sanded them down and was hoping I could put an oil on them but not sure it its possible?? Any help will be gratefull.
You can oil the jarrah hardwood sleepers. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results. This teak oil by Minwax or this Australian timber oil by Cabot is a good option.
Hello. I have a wooden swing I am refinishing made by my father 20 years ago. He used cherry wood. I wasn’t able to find any cherry wood to match the damaged slats, so I’m replacing with cedar boards found at my local Menards. It’s going to be out in the elements in Ohio. From my research, I thought tung oil would be best for cherry, but boiled Linseed for the cedar. Is this correct? I don’t want the cedar to turn grey, and I want to leave natural colors. I thought about using oil and then using spar urethane on top. Could I mix the 2 oils? What would be your recommendation to finish this. Thank you.
What you found from your research should work. Both tung oil and linseed oil are great to use on wood. I wouldn’t mix the oils, I would do a coat at a time because if the oils aren’t mixed properly or they don’t want to mix, the finished product won’t look the best it could. Spar varnish is a really good finish to use. I would recommend a spar varnish by Minwaxor TotalBoat.
Great info!! Thx! I have a patio set made of Acacia wood. Have had it a year. It has had a polyurethane treatment at the factory. It looks dry and I want to maintain it. Is there an oil I can apply without sanding and that has a low odor?
You can use linseed oil on the wood, the only downside is it takes a while to dry and will need a few layers. There are other oils out there too such as danish and teak oil as well as tung oil that just needs a light sanding in between coats. The oils shouldn’t smell too bad but if you are looking for something completely odorless, there are odorless sealers at Walmart or any hardware stores that will keep the wood nice as well.
I have a wooden stairway, not sure which kind of wood. Maybe oak. Which oil would you recommend regarding the high foot traffic?
Hi,
Osmo Polyx is an oil specially designed for wooden floors. Try it.
Hey William,
Great article!
What do I use on wood sculptured art? Thx
Hi Josh,
Choose Sunnyside. It’s designed for wood antiques, so I think it would be great for wooden sculptured art too.
I am purchasing a kitchen island that is perfect for a bathroom vanity. I would like to make the counter top a darker wood (dark walnut) and the bottom half white, it will have a vessel sink.
I am not sure on the stain or oil to use to keep the top water resistant.
Thanks!!
Hi,
If you chose stain you would also need a sealer because stain colors the wood but not waterproofs by itself. Speaking of oils, go for Danish Oil, it got many colors for walnut.
Recently sanded old style pine kitchen cupboard had 3 layers of paint
Do not want to paint
Can you suggest a good oil to finish it please
Hi Chris,
There are many options available for your situation but I recommend Watco Danish Oil since it has many colors you can choose from to enrich the color of your cupboard.
Hi I have some very old furniture that is starting to crack along the grain lines. Some of this furniture is bare wood, some has a lacquered finish. A friend of mine suggested I get teak oil and a big syringe, and squirt the teak oil into the cracks weekly over a period of months to bring back deep moisture to the wood. To the best of my knowledge the various pieces are made of European oak, rosewood, mahagony, and elm from China, and mahogany from the Philippines.
Do you agree with this recommendation?
Hi Tess,
I oiled wood many times but I’ve never done ‘deep’ oiling. I think you should try this method, at least it won’t make things worse.
My dad used to always use lemon oil on our teak furniture. Any thoughts on this? I have two teak side tables with glass inserts on the top that I have cleaned and am about to sand a bit on the top frame but am debating what to use on it to finish it. I don’t want any sort of varnish containing oil, just some type of oil. Am currently looking at tung oil. Do you have a citrus oil you like to use as a thinner for the tung oil?
Hi Charles,
Lemon oil is a cleaning solution and polish rather than finish in most cases. I haven’t used citrus oils. I personally would choose tung oil since it’s a more ‘common’ solution.
Hi there, I am making hot plates from slices of logs. Looking for the best finish to apply that will hold up to hot temperatures, a casserole dish coming out of the oven, a pot off the stove- etc. Minwax says there products are rated at 120*F.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
D. C.
Hi Donald,
Tried & True and Osmo Top Oil are food safe oils which can be applied on plates but I don’t know what temperatures they can withstand, sorry.
it might sound ridiculous but I want to make homemade wooden spoons and chopping board so I came here to search for a good coating. From my reading Cosmo top oil seems to be the ticket. Am I getting it? Thank you
Hi Nichole,
Yep, Osmo Top Oil is food safe, choose this option.
Do you have a suggestion for 100+ year old wood slats in an antique trunk? I’ve sanded and am researching what may be best for this dry wood but it’s confusing. I’m leaning toward Danish oil or Tung oil but already have varnish and polyurethane on hand so I’m just not sure. Thank you.
Hi,
It depends. As I understand it, you need a finish for dry wood, so oil is the best option here. Varnishes and polyurethanes are designed for different purposes.
Hello,
I am looking into turning an old antique english manogany end side table cabinet into a vanity sink. I want to protect the wood from damage when people are washing their hands. What would you suggest for this?
Hi Tiffany,
Sunnyside oil is well suited for antique wooden pieces, check it out.
I am building an outdoor dining table and will be making the top out of red cedar. What would be the best oil to use for this project, I want to make sure I use something water and UV resistant. Or would I be better off with a different product all together. I just want to keep the natural look of the cedar without color additives. Thank you. Alison
Hi Alison,
Oil or sealer would be a good choice but they add a bit of tint to the wood. Instead, try some exterior clear polyurethane such as Helmsman. Urethanes create a protective layer over the wood, unlike oils and sealers which penetrate the wood, but urethanes are clear.
First, I want to sincerely thank you for all the information you’ve provided here. I have been researching for days in order to make the ‘right’ decision and your content has made me understand the options much more.
That said, I am still not confident in making a decision and would love your advice. I have an only wooden floor, hardwood but not sure what kind. It will be sanded down to its natural state. What I am looking for is an oil that will provide some tint, but preferably on the golden yellow side, preferably not dark or reddish.
We will be doing this one section at a time, thinking that we will go with the wood pattern around the perimeter first. I don’t think that will be an issue, but I wanted to confirm with you.
From what I gathered from your post, I should use boiled linseed oil, the first listed. As it will not give a darker coloring and is safe applying indoors.
As I am just learning about all the available options, I was hoping I can ask for your thought.
Thank you again, Li
Hello Li,
The first option on the list (Sunnyside) is great for furniture but not for floors actually, it just won’t withstand floor traffic. Go for Osmo Polyx, it’s specially designed for wooden floors. As for tint, first, try to apply it on some small inconspicuous area. You will make sure that you’re okay with the tint by doing so.
Help!!!! I have a piece of furniture that I am the fourth generation owner. We have been told that it is Cherry Wood but not confirmed. The piece is very large. My family always called it the Press. It is 7 1/2 feet tall and 6 ft long, so it doesn’t move from it’s present position. When we were moving it into my home, it took 6 grown men to get it in. My problem is that we burn with wood exclusively and I am seeing some stress to the Press. There is a finish on the piece, but I have no idea what was used. I’m confused on what type of oil I should be using to moisturize this beautiful piece. Also, I assume that I will need to oil both inside and out if possible, correct? Any help you can give me would be great.
Hi Pat.
Definitely, you need some oil for antique furniture. Sunnyside would be perfect for your situation, it’s designed especially for that type of wooden pieces. Yes, it’s better to finish your Press both inside and outside.
What is the best oil paint for Redwood furniture
Danish oil is preferred for redwood. So Watco Danish is for you.
What is the best oil for red oak flooring? I have new sections and old sections and will be sanding down old sections to bare wood in one room. Also, in another room I have older red oak flooring and I don’t know what type of finish is on it, but it is scratched. Can I just apply oil over the old finish to freshen it up and skip the sanding?
Hi Paula.
Osmo Polys Oil is great for floors. It’s better to remove old finish since oil need to penetrate the wood pores in order to work properly.
If you are looking for a non-toxic oil that will have a nice natural finish hemp oil works great.
Hemp oil cures to a hard finish in about 1 month. You can also make an oil based polish made from 3 parts hemp oil to 1 part beeswax pieces. Just put your mason jar in a pot of water and boil until the wax melts and allow to cool.
The problem with today’s Danish Oil is not the “oil” at all but the other toxins that are put into it. In the race to make it cheaper and faster, industrial coating makers have cut back the oil and increased the other ingredients which are toxic.
Hi Sheri.
Thanks for your comments, it will be very helpful for others.
i have a solid walnut desk and want to refinish the top. There are several marks from marking pens that need to be removed. I have found someone to help me by lightly sanding the surface and re-oiling it. What oil do you recommend? I do not want a glossy finish.
Hi Elaine.
I think Watco Danish Oil is for you. It has a satin sheen and many walnut tones to choose from.